Icy East Greenland - Part 3

We left the valley that time forgot and launched once again into thick patches of ice floating on a gentle swell. The route finding was challenging as we made our way towards the entrance to Sermilik Fjord. This fjord has a reputation for ice due to the 3 glaciers that calve into it. However, we found stretches of open water and soon arrived at the abandoned village of Ikateq.

We stopped for an early lunch and to explore to old buildings that had supported a small community until the late 1990s.

The church is in marvellous condition. It would seem that someone has been looking after quite well. The altar and pews are clean and the organ looks as if it were used just yesterday.

The school room is next door and is a little more chaotic. It seems as things got a little too exciting when the last class was dismissed.

It is interesting to see books on familiar subjects. Geography, wildlife, religion. Yet it felt quite eerie to be in a classroom that time has not touched since children were last learning their times tables here.

There were VHS video tapes, teachers curricular notes still in the posting envelope and even this desktop pencil sharpener.

Icy East Greenland - Part 2

Once we had gone through the ritual of packing our kayaks, whilst feeding the local mosquito population, we managed to escape the insects and paddle out among the ice floes. A chilly breeze greeted us at the entrance of Kong Oscar Havn as we ventured out along the committing south coast of Angmagssalik Island.

A group of French kayakers were paddling in the opposite direction. They were just finishing their trip. They had seen two Polar bears in the last few days. The most recent sighting had been that day and the bear had been where we were intending to camp that evening.

Photo Julie Jones

As we paddled along the southern cliffs of Angmagssalik we marvelled at the experience of weaving our way through dense sea ice. However, it wasn't long before we encountered problems. At the most southerly tip the ice was moving swiftly in the tidal stream and lurching about in the ocean swell. There was simply no safe way through.

Photo: Julie Jones

We decided to look for somewhere to land and wait for the conditions to settle. The only landing we could find was in a nearby bay. The landing was not easy. There was a small rock ledge beneath a steep slab that led to a larger, more comfortable ledge upon which we could brew up and eat snacks.

After a couple of hours we tried again. This time the tide had weakened and the swell didn't seem as troublesome either. After a couple more miles of paddling through the icy waters we found a sheltered lagoon and an island. Our accommodation that evening would be a (bear-proof) wooden hunting cabin on the island with an overwhelming view across the water to a huge valley that time must have forgotten.

Icy East Greenland - Part 1

One of the attractions of paddling along the shores of East Greenland is the ice. This July we got more than we bargained for. As our flight from Reykjavik to Kulusuk reached the East Greenland coast, we began to get an impression as to how much ice there really was. Just before landing we caught a glimpse of the local harbour. It looked pretty blocked up!

We walked with our 20-25 kilo packs just over a kilometre from Kulusuk airport to a jetty only to find that ice was blocking the way to all but the most determined boat drivers.

After waiting for an hour or so we decided to walk another 3 kilometres into Kulusuk village to find our boat waiting for us in the harbour there. Once we loaded and climbed on board, it took nearly half an hour just to negotiate a route through the thick ice and out of the bay into Ammassalik Fjord.

Once we reached Tasiilaq it was obvious that the ice was going to present a significant problem. We were going to have to think about changing our plans. With all of this ice comes seals and Polar Bears. In fact a Polar bear had taken up residence on an ice floe at the harbour entrance a few days before our arrival. To our relief it had since wandered off back out to sea.

Packing for Greenland

I'm starting to get excited about heading off for Greenland at the end of the week. Its time to get currency sorted and make sure I have all my travel documents ready. I have been watching the weather forecasts carefully looking at the satellite images of the sea ice.

Over the weekend I have been selecting what kit to take with me and weighing it in a effort to keep within the weight limits for flying. I'd also like to take this opportunity to thank those that have helped me with kit for this expedition. Thanks to Lance at Mitchell Blades for my new 4-piece Bombora paddle I can now fit that in my main kit bag. I also have some great new dry bags from Ortleib and an innovative case from F Stop to keep my cameras and filming equipment clean and dry. Thanks to Pete at Peak UK for my new one-piece suit which ought to help keep me clean and dry. I'll be taking the Brynje thermal base layers that I've been testing recently. If they are good enough for Norwegian special forces, the ought to be good enough for this trip. When I get there I'll be paddling the P&H Scorpio that was shipped there last year. Finally, thanks to Clif Bar UK for supplying us with a generous supply of their energy bars.

New Thermal Base layers

A couple of months ago I was sent a couple thermal base layer tops from Brynje of Norway. I must admit that when I first saw the 'string vest' material I was a little sceptical. However, Norwegian special forces use them so Brynje must be doing something right. These garments are close fitting, extremely stretchy and feel immediately warm to wear.

I first tried the 'Classic Wool' long sleeved top whilst taking part in the Seaquest kayak orienteering event at Ravenglass. This involved 3 hours of paddling with some running on a day when the weather could only be described a hideous. I wore the 'Classic Wool' top under a lightweight paddling cag as I expected to be paddling hard. I never felt too cold or too hot. Even at the finish, when I had to wait around for a while, I was pleasantly surprised as I didn't cool off too quickly even though I was soaked to the skin.

The feel of the material is really soft and comfortable even when wet. This is the most comfortable base layer that I have ever worn. The great thing about the 'string vest' material is that it dries really quickly. It wicks moisture away from the body really effectively and is super lightweight too.

I have also tried the 'Super Thermo' long sleeved top for cooler days when the paddling would be more laid back. The 'Super Thermo' range is entirely synthetic and has even better insulating and moisture wicking properties than the 'Classic Wool' range. Where the merino wool material is almost stink proof, the super thermo is more liable to get a bit more pongy between washes.

In spite of having the mickey taken for wearing a top that looks like a black string vest, I'll definitely be taking my Brynje base layers with me on my forthcoming trip to east Greenland.

Cute Chicks

Another visit to The Skerries was too much to resist in spite of the unexpected breeze from the west. Setting out from Bull Bay, we could enjoy terrific views along Anglesey's north coast.

We stopped to play in the race off West Mouse before continuing on through the choppy seas past the Coal Rock buoy. As we drew closer to The Skerries and paddled and into calmer waters of the lagoon, the familiar cries of hundreds of Arctic terns filled the air around us.

Many of the eggs have hatched and there are now hundreds of hungry mouths to feed. Chicks tend to wander around whilst the parents are away fishing. When the parents return, it can be tricky to find their offspring.

A few of the bolder,  more enterprising youngsters will take advantage of this and persuade a 'lost' parent to feed them instead!

However, it is more usual for the family to gather on Sunday afternoon to eat dinner together. It seems hard to believe that in less than two months time, these fluffy little chicks will set off to fly thousands of miles to the shores of South America.

One good tern deserves another

I'm not quite sure quite how many, but there are hundreds of them on The Skerries at this time of the year. They are amazing birds with a delicate buoyant flight that changes dramatically as they plunge like darts into the sea in search of sand eels.

Arctic terns undergo a seemingly exhausting migration cycle. From their breeding grounds in northern and sub-Arctic Europe they fly to South Africa and South America for the winter, effectively enjoying a lifetime of summers.

This extraordinary migratory pattern is unique to this bird and ensures that Arctic terns see more daylight in a year that any other living thing.

Their nests on the ground are extremely vulnerable. If you get too close to their nests they will fly and swoop at you whilst uttering a sharp squawk. It is not uncommon to get struck on the head with their sharp bill, which is quite capable of drawing blood.

Video clip - Olly Sanders - www.rockandseadventures.co.uk

RSPB wardens keep an eye on the Skerries terns throughout the breeding season from May until mid-August and are usually happy to show a small number of paddlers around. If you do go, take care to keep away from any nesting areas and approach the lighthouse via the steps on the south side.

Up the Conwy

The Conwy Ascent race is a must for racing or touring paddlers diary. This event is well established and is always run in a pleasingly relaxed manner by Dyffryn Conwy Paddlers.

There is always a 'Le Mans' style racing start with all competitors lined up along the top of the beach. When the word is given, everyone dashes down the beach to their kayaks to launch as quickly as possible, and get under way.

The course starts at 'The Beacons' car park and beach at the mouth of the Conwy estuary and uses the flooding tide as it winds its way 15 kilometres upstream to Dolgarrog Bridge.

The combination of a weak neap tide and strong headwinds meant that no course records were in danger of being broken this time.

Sea Kayak Expedition Gathering

Friday evening traffic was kind enough to allow me a jam free journey to the north Yorkshire coast for the Sea Kayak Expedition Gathering. On my arrival I was greeted with a hot meal and a beer (Always a good start). As night fell on Friday evening there were tall tales and ghost stories round the fire just to make sure we all slept soundly in our beds.

In the morning everyone split into different groups for workshops on trip planning, fishing and foraging for wild foods.

At lunchtime the organisers laid on a fantastic spread of food cooked freshly on the beach. Fried fish, malt loaf fritters and stewed fruit re-replenished our energy reserves for the afternoon incident management sessions. The local RNLI lifeboat crew from Staithes joined us to try different techniques for rescuing kayakers.

After dinner I showed pictures and footage from last years expedition to east Greenland finishing off with the film Gino's Greenland. After that there were workshops on emergency boat repairs by Howard Jeffs and navigation & trip planning by Kim Bull.

Sunday was more about journeying with everyone splitting into smaller groups focusing on boat handling and navigation on the move. As we entered Staithes harbour we were once again treated to freshly prepared food before completing the final leg to finish in Runswick Bay.

Many thanks to Ang, Steve, Sophie and the rest of the crew at East Barnby Outdoor Education Centre for a terrific weekend. I'm already looking forward to the next one.

Northumberland - A Warmer Return

Since my last visit just after Easter, Northumberland has turned green and sprung into life. The dawn chorus woke us up early and following a leisurely breakfast on the campsite, Dave and I headed for Bamburgh beach in search of the Farne Islands.

The sea was unusually flat with hardly any swell at all. As we arrived at Longstone the sun broke through the chilly morning gloom and blue skies dominated the rest of the day.

The delayed start of spring was obvious here earlier in April but things have finally got into swing. Seals are inquisitive as ever and obviously enjoying basking in the warm sunshine.

Birdlife is building towards its crescendo with Arctic terns and kittiwakes incubating eggs. I wore my kayaking helmet for my visit to Inner Farne but the wardens asked me to take it off. When the terns dive bomb you (occasionally making contact) they could break their beaks. As soon as I took it off i got my head pecked.

Puffins are always everyone's favourite and don't dive bomb you or peck people's heads.

Ravenglass Seaquest

Last weekend I headed to the Lake District to meet with some friends for some walking and to take part in the Ravenglass Seaquest event.

On the Saturday, John and I managed to dodge the showers and climb a small hill that overlooks the Esk estuary.

The Ravenglass Seaquest is an orienteering event with canoes and kayaks that makes use of the Irt, Mite and Esk estuaries of west Cumbria. The day started with fine weather which soon deteriorated into rain driven by a strong southwesterly wind.

The event is now in its 7th year and organisation has recently been taken up by Copeland Canoe Club. Its a wonderfully social event with plenty of prizes being handed out for the winners of various categories.

Spring has finally sprung

After the blizzards at Easter and the cold weeks that followed, I was beginning to think that Spring would never come. But now that it has, Spring has made a blazing entrance.

The constant deluge of rain that we had through the second half of last year must have left plenty of moisture deep in the soil because this is the greenest Springtime that I can remember.

Its difficult to ignore how vibrant the colours are in the garden.

30th Anglesey Sea Symposium

The Anglesey Sea Symposium is 30 years old. The event started as 'The Nordkapp Meet' and was free to any Valley Kayak owners. Since then the event has evolved into the Anglesey Sea Symposium and attracts paddlers from around the world.

The combination of day trips and coaching sessions, world renowned guest speakers and live music is clearly the winning combination.

It is important not to forget the venue. Anglesey is one of the best sea kayaking destinations in the world. It has the scenery and wildlife, exposure to the elements and sheltered waters, and it is within easy reach by road, sea and air.

I had the pleasure of presenting my expedition film 'Gino's Greenland' on the Sunday evening. Over the weekend I was helping out on the water with some guiding in a variety of conditions.

We had sessions in force 5-6 in big waves...

... and rockhopping in the shelter of the cliffs along Anglesey's north coast.

Northumberland - A Weekend of Two Halves

It was hardly believable! Following a cold, frosty night in the tent, the weather on Saturday morning was wall to wall blue skies, light winds and plenty of warm sunshine.

The North Sea was lively with swell as always. This held our attention as we lined our boats up ready to launch from Stag Rocks just to the north of Bamburgh Castle.

Once we got out through the first few breaking waves we were on our way to the Farne Islands. The first stop was a small rock called Megstone. We paddled through the gully that runs through the middle. Inquisitive seals watched as we passed through. A few then swam after us as we punched out through a few waves breaking on the outer reef.

After passing the Wamses and Harcar islands we arrived at the Longstone for lunch beside the lighthouse with plenty of time to explore the Farne's distinctive outpost.

Our return took us past the Pinnacles of Staple Island. Although most of the breeding population of auks have yet to settle. Kittiwakes are already paired up and competing for precarious nesting sites.

As we approached the Inner Farne, the skies became a little more dull. With views to the snow clad Cheviots inland, the day soon took on an Arctic feel. Once we has landed through the surf at Bamburgh, it was time for fish and chips at Seahouses before planning the next day's paddle in the pub!

Sunday morning was a little dull with the occasional glimpse of sun through the cloud. We set off from Beadnell aiming for Craster.

Heading out from Nacker Hole it was apparent the the swell had increased overnight. This provided some excellent reef breaks for those brave and skilled enough.

After passing the reefs of Football Hole we headed in to Low Newton for a quick break and to consider paddling the next stretch of coast.

As we took on the headland upon which Dunstanborough Castle stands, the wind increased and the skies took on a menacing look. It got colder and began to rain. This gave us a choppy approach to Craster Harbour.

When we arrived, landing through rafts of stinking rotten kelp, all we could do was huddle in the shelter of a beached fishing boat. It took us a little over an hour to do the return journey in one straight line. When we arrived back at Beadnell the temperature read 3 degrees Celsius.  Time to head home!