Arriving at Sermiligaaq

The flight from Reykjavik to Kulusuk Airport takes around an hour an forty minutes. Just over half way through the flight we began to see the jagged frozen coast of East Greenland. As we got close we could pick out some of the headlands and islands that we would be paddling round in the next 16 days.

When we landed we needed to get to the boat jetty which is around a kilometre walk from the airfield. Each of us were carrying around 30-40 kilograms of equipment and food.

The boat journey to Sermiligaaq took just over 90 minutes. Once we arrived there was no time to hang around. The first job was to get to the shop to buy some extra food. I bought bread, cheese, some tinned fish and as many beers as I though I could cram into an already heavily laden kayak. The second job was to get re-aquainted with the P&H Scorpio that I paddled in the 2012 expedition.

Once we were all loaded up we launched into a misty afternoon and paddled for just after an hour until reaching our first camp. After pitching my tent I went for a short walk around the nearby headland and gazed at the moon rising over the ice laden channel that we would be paddling through next morning. It really felt as though we were about to paddle off the edge of the world.

Reykjavik, the gateway to East Greenland

East Greenland is just as easily reached and many of the remote yet popular holiday destinations in Europe. The total flying time is a little over 4 hours. Flights from Reykjavik to Kulusuk only run in the morning so the journey will always involve an overnight stay in Iceland's intriguing capital city.

Sun Voyager (Icelandic: Sólfar)

Reykjavik is home to a community of prolific creators. Music, entertainment and art fills the busy public places but walking the narrow back streets it is clear that there is fresh talent growing at every corner.

My favourite sculpture is 'Sun Voyager' which is situated on the sea front close to the city centre. It is a ship of dreams, fantasy and knowledge. To sail the 'Sun Voyager' is to follow the sun and promises a bright future full of adventures and discovery.

All too soon the sightseeing is over and its is time for an early night. The next day will take us on a flight across the Denmark Strait to Kulusuk Airport and the beginning of our sea kayak journey in the tiny hunting community of Sermiligaaq on the icy East coast of Greenland.

Greenland here we come!

During the last few weeks I have been sending daily weather forecasts and information about the sea ice to Martin Rickard. He has been exploring the Fjords and channels of the Angmagssalik region of East Greenland.

Very soon it will be my turn to head off to this dramatic Arctic coastline. Our expedition will take us along a more exposed stretch of coastline to a place called Tugtilik otherwise known as Lake Fjord. This is where the celebrated British explorer, Gino Watkins went missing in August 1932. A memorial cross stands in his honour close to the remains of his expedition hut.

Back home I have been weighing my kit and checking my documents. Thanks to Lyon Equipment I have a new set of Ortlieb dry bags and 2 weeks supply of Trek 'n Eat freeze dried expedition meals. Once again I have plenty of nutritious Clif Bars that will help keep me going on those long days on the sea.

It has been a challenge getting everything packed within the various airline weight limits, but its all coming together now. I'd like to take this opportunity to thank P&H Custom Sea Kayaks, Peak UK, F-stop Gear for their continued support as well as Mitchell Blades for my newly re-furbished 4-piece paddles.

Skerries in the Mist

Following the great rains of Saturday, I joined members of Liverpool Canoe Club on a trip out to The Skerries off the North West coast of Anglesey. We launched at Cemlyn Bay where there was a gentle breeze and the sun was shining brightly.

As we left the bay we noticed the The Skerries were missing! We paddled into mist and dense fog patches. These weather conditions kept us guessing and focused on our navigation skills. However, past training and practice paid off as the islands loomed out of the gloom with around a kilometre to go.

Life on The Skerries is as hectic as ever. Most of the young Arctic Terns have now fledged but parent birds are still being kept busy feeding some of the younger ones.

A handful of chicks have yet to get their flight feathers. These late comers to the party will have to grow up fast if they are to be strong enough to make the long Autumn migration to the South Atlantic in the next 4-6 weeks.

In the meantime, life in the waters and around the rocks is busy for the seals. There was hardly a dull moment as we were escorted off the premises by several of these playful, inquisitive sea creatures.

The mist and fog patches remained for our return crossing. As we arrived back at the Anglesey shoreline, we took the opportunity to explore the gullies and channels that lead the way from Hen Borth to Cemlyn Bay. Many thanks again to my friends at Liverpool Canoe Club for their company over the weekend.

A return to Bardsey

Trevor an I set off from a misty scene on Aberdaron beach. Initially we headed fro the East side of the bay where we found some entertaining paddling in the caves and amongst the rock gardens.

The poor visibility gave us some concern about the 7km crossing to Bardsey from Ynys Gwylan Bach. In addition, we would be dealing with strong currents generated by strong spring tides.

During the crossing we were entertained by local puffins and spectacular aerial displays of Manx shearwaters as they glided across the sea around us, skimming the tops of the waves. I'm sure they were playing a game of 'dodge the kayak' flying to within feet of our bows.

The crossing took more time and effort than we expected. We were reminded that the crossing to Bardsey is one of the more challenging sort crossings in the UK.

Down on the western pastures the sheep shearers have been and the hay has been cut too. However, one of the fields has been left as a spectacular summer meadow.

Walking along the summit ridge of Mynydd Enlli, we were treated to yet more wild wonders. Mountain thyme is now in flower among the rocks, peregrines are busy feeding their young on the young of other unwary parents and the local gang of adolescent choughs are up to no good as usual.

Our return to Aberdaron was far more straight forward in good visibility and glorious sunshine.

Under Sail

Last week I joined Dr Charles Clarke and his partner Marcella for a 3-day coastal voyage aboard his 35ft yacht 'Whisky Galore'.

Within an hour of leaving Pwllheli Harbour there were Manx shearwaters gliding along the wave crests. Soon afterwards we spotted a bottlenose dolphin, or perhaps it spotted us. Within minutes there were several of them playing in our bow wave.

Shore leave took us to venture round the pretty villages of Barmouth and Aberdovey. Each evening we were treated to lovely views across shallow estuarine waters to rolling hills and mountains beyond.

Many thanks to Charlie and Marcella for the adventure, great company and wonderful hospitality.

Sea Kayak Expedition Gathering - Northumberland 2014

The Sea Kayak Expedition Gathering is a weekend of discussing and developing skills and techniques in preparation for expedition paddling.

This years gathering was based at The Barn at Beal in the rolling Northumberland countryside that overlooks the Holy Island of Lindisfarne.

The calm weather was too good to ignore. Workshops were all water-based and delivered as a series of 'top tips' whilst on the move and exploring the nearby Farne Islands.

In the late afternoon sunshine, all of the teams gathered on the Inner Farne to meet one of the wardens and get acquainted with the local wildlife. We all came away understanding the importance of wearing a hat when moving through an Arctic tern colony.

Saturday evening was more relaxed with plenty to drink, barbecued food and an inspiring talk by Olly Sanders.

Following the broad brush approach of the first day, Sunday's workshops were more focussed on boat handling, launching and landing in challenging conditions, and trip planning.

Coquet Island Race

On the day before the Coquet Island Race John and I headed out to the Farne Islands to get in amongst the wildlife. Puffins, razorbills, guillemots and kittiwakes are in the middle of the busiest part of their breeding season.

On Staple Island and the Inner Farne, the Terns and Shags are at their grumpiest when visitors come on the tour boats from Seahouses.

Sunday morning was race day and the usual informal friendly atmosphere greeted competitors and spectators alike.

Winning times for the 5.5 mile course are always well under an hour. The first place in the men's race went to Brian Turnbull from the Scottish Borders.

First lady was (not for the the first time) Kate Duffus. Congratulations are due to all competitors but most of all thanks to Vic Brown and Coquet Canoe Club for this lovely event.

Bardsey the Island in the Currents

The Welsh name, Ynys Enlli translates as island in the currents. In the days of Celtic saints and their travels, three pilgrimages to Bardsey held the same merit as one to Rome.

It has been over two years since I last visited this amazing place. Throughout this Spring, weather and commitments have conspired against my return until this last weekend. Trevor, Stephanie and I left Porth Ysgaden with the ebb tide. There is little in the way of human activity along the North coast of the Lleyn giving our journey a wild and remote feel.

As we approached Braich y Pwll at the end of the Lleyn, the distinctive silhouette of Bardsey slid into view. We explored the rocky shores on the west side before landing beside the slipway just as the heavens opened.

We were welcomed ashore by Steve who is the farmer on Bardsey. The pace of life on the island is slow and we took our time wandering around and exploring.

This included staying out until after dark listening to the Manx shearwaters, then getting up early the next morning to climb to the 167 metre summit of Mynydd Enlli.

Photo: Trevor Shepherd

Before heading back, we visited the ruins of the 13th Century abbey where a memorial cross stands to commemorate the 20,000 saints who are buried hereabouts.

 Our return to the mainland took in the eastern cliffs that provide nesting places for guillemots, razorbills and puffins. Soon afterwards the smooth waters led us crashing through the overfalls at Braich y Pwll and riding the late afternoon flood tide back to Porth Ysgaden.

I'd like to take this opportunity to thank Stephanie and Trevor for their company, and to Steve and his family for their kind hospitality.

Farne Islands - Ducks, Auks and Seals

There are between 15 and 28 islands in this archipelago depending on the height of the tide. Each Spring these islands off the Northumbrian coast come to life with the arrival of the tourists but in turn, the tourists come to see the hundreds of thousands of breeding sea birds.

The local boat operators that work out of the nearby port of Seahouses are keen to make the best that they can during what is a short season. The nesting season begins in late May, but is all over by early August.

To kayakers with an interest in wildlife, this is paradise. Not only do the birds and seals keep us entertained, but the powerful currents create tide races and overfalls completing an ocean playground that stretches across 16 square kilometres of sea.

The Farne Islands occupy a special place in British, and worldwide natural history. To explore this place quietly by kayak is a privilege and a pleasure.

Anglesey Sea Kayak Symposium 2014

This May Bank Holiday event brings paddlers to Anglesey from far and wide for good reason. Not only is the range of workshops, talks and courses exceptional, but the setting is second to none. The Anglesey coastline reliably provides the variety paddling conditions and gracefully plays host to this worldwide event.

I started the weekend with a trip round 'The Stacks' in breezy conditions. This is the first time that I paddled the 'Jura', which is latest design from the Venture Kayaks boat shed.

The following few days were spent day tripping, rock-hopping and surfing around some of the stunning stretches of the Anglesey coastline, as well as attending some training workshops.

Life never seems to stop at this festival! Once off the water there is barely time to rest before it is time for dinner. There were inspiring evening lectures about amazing expeditions by Ginni Callahan, Eila Wilkinson and Pete Bray. After all this intense activity there would still be time to wind down with music, dancing and (of course) drinks in the famous 'Paddlers Return' bar.

As I was preparing to set off for home, I was told that places were already being booked for next years event...