Bardsey the Island in the Currents

The Welsh name, Ynys Enlli translates as island in the currents. In the days of Celtic saints and their travels, three pilgrimages to Bardsey held the same merit as one to Rome.

It has been over two years since I last visited this amazing place. Throughout this Spring, weather and commitments have conspired against my return until this last weekend. Trevor, Stephanie and I left Porth Ysgaden with the ebb tide. There is little in the way of human activity along the North coast of the Lleyn giving our journey a wild and remote feel.

As we approached Braich y Pwll at the end of the Lleyn, the distinctive silhouette of Bardsey slid into view. We explored the rocky shores on the west side before landing beside the slipway just as the heavens opened.

We were welcomed ashore by Steve who is the farmer on Bardsey. The pace of life on the island is slow and we took our time wandering around and exploring.

This included staying out until after dark listening to the Manx shearwaters, then getting up early the next morning to climb to the 167 metre summit of Mynydd Enlli.

Photo: Trevor Shepherd

Before heading back, we visited the ruins of the 13th Century abbey where a memorial cross stands to commemorate the 20,000 saints who are buried hereabouts.

 Our return to the mainland took in the eastern cliffs that provide nesting places for guillemots, razorbills and puffins. Soon afterwards the smooth waters led us crashing through the overfalls at Braich y Pwll and riding the late afternoon flood tide back to Porth Ysgaden.

I'd like to take this opportunity to thank Stephanie and Trevor for their company, and to Steve and his family for their kind hospitality.