Bardsey the Island in the Currents

The Welsh name, Ynys Enlli translates as island in the currents. In the days of Celtic saints and their travels, three pilgrimages to Bardsey held the same merit as one to Rome.

It has been over two years since I last visited this amazing place. Throughout this Spring, weather and commitments have conspired against my return until this last weekend. Trevor, Stephanie and I left Porth Ysgaden with the ebb tide. There is little in the way of human activity along the North coast of the Lleyn giving our journey a wild and remote feel.

As we approached Braich y Pwll at the end of the Lleyn, the distinctive silhouette of Bardsey slid into view. We explored the rocky shores on the west side before landing beside the slipway just as the heavens opened.

We were welcomed ashore by Steve who is the farmer on Bardsey. The pace of life on the island is slow and we took our time wandering around and exploring.

This included staying out until after dark listening to the Manx shearwaters, then getting up early the next morning to climb to the 167 metre summit of Mynydd Enlli.

Photo: Trevor Shepherd

Before heading back, we visited the ruins of the 13th Century abbey where a memorial cross stands to commemorate the 20,000 saints who are buried hereabouts.

 Our return to the mainland took in the eastern cliffs that provide nesting places for guillemots, razorbills and puffins. Soon afterwards the smooth waters led us crashing through the overfalls at Braich y Pwll and riding the late afternoon flood tide back to Porth Ysgaden.

I'd like to take this opportunity to thank Stephanie and Trevor for their company, and to Steve and his family for their kind hospitality.

Farne Islands - Ducks, Auks and Seals

There are between 15 and 28 islands in this archipelago depending on the height of the tide. Each Spring these islands off the Northumbrian coast come to life with the arrival of the tourists but in turn, the tourists come to see the hundreds of thousands of breeding sea birds.

The local boat operators that work out of the nearby port of Seahouses are keen to make the best that they can during what is a short season. The nesting season begins in late May, but is all over by early August.

To kayakers with an interest in wildlife, this is paradise. Not only do the birds and seals keep us entertained, but the powerful currents create tide races and overfalls completing an ocean playground that stretches across 16 square kilometres of sea.

The Farne Islands occupy a special place in British, and worldwide natural history. To explore this place quietly by kayak is a privilege and a pleasure.

Anglesey Sea Kayak Symposium 2014

This May Bank Holiday event brings paddlers to Anglesey from far and wide for good reason. Not only is the range of workshops, talks and courses exceptional, but the setting is second to none. The Anglesey coastline reliably provides the variety paddling conditions and gracefully plays host to this worldwide event.

I started the weekend with a trip round 'The Stacks' in breezy conditions. This is the first time that I paddled the 'Jura', which is latest design from the Venture Kayaks boat shed.

The following few days were spent day tripping, rock-hopping and surfing around some of the stunning stretches of the Anglesey coastline, as well as attending some training workshops.

Life never seems to stop at this festival! Once off the water there is barely time to rest before it is time for dinner. There were inspiring evening lectures about amazing expeditions by Ginni Callahan, Eila Wilkinson and Pete Bray. After all this intense activity there would still be time to wind down with music, dancing and (of course) drinks in the famous 'Paddlers Return' bar.

As I was preparing to set off for home, I was told that places were already being booked for next years event...

The Small Isles at Easter

On the Thursday before Easter, Chris, Sam and I surfed the wave of holidaymakers and thrill-seekers bound for coast, countryside and mountain leisure destinations. We travelled through the night and arrived at the Silver Sands campsite near Arisaig shortly after 2am. 

Later in the morning Stephanie arrived and having packed our kayaks, we set off on a 5 day tour of 'the small isles'. Our first challenge was to cross 10 kilometres to the north end of the Isle of Eigg with a strengthening south-westerly wind.

On the following morning we left the Bay of Laig on the west of Eigg to continue to the Island of Rum landing in a small bay with a bothy called Dibidil. The east shores of Rum provided us with constant entertainment with cliffs, caves and kelp infested rock-gardens. From the north end of Rum, we intended to make the short hop west to Canna on the next day. However, with strong easterly winds forecast, we decided to scale our plans down a little. 

The Island of Soay was our next destination. The southern shores were less dramatic than those on Rum, but still intriguing and entertaining all the way into Camas nan Gall. We stopped in this inlet for snacks before crossing to the small port of Elgol on the Isle of Skye.

From Elgol we passed the cave of Bonnie Prince Charlie and made it to Taskarvaig Bay where we would be sheltered from any easterly winds. We settled down for the night knowing full well that we would have a challenging crossing to the mainland the next day. 

The first 10 kilometres of our final day were straight forward as we benefited from the shelter of the west facing cliffs. Upon arriving at the Point of Sleat we realised the strength of the easterly wind. Not only was there a force 4 wind blowing against us, we could barely make out the port of Mallaig through the haze. We scratched our way along the coast to Aird of Sleat. From here we would be exposed to the full force of the wind on the final leg of our trip.

The crossing was mentally taxing as well as physically challenging. We eventually landed at Morar Sands just to the south of Mallaig. After we had rested and eaten, we had just 3 kilometres to paddle to reach the Silver Sands campsite from where we had started.

It didn't seem to matter that we had cut our trip short by a day. Sometimes you just have to bow to the whims of mother nature. I'd like to take this opportunity to thank Chris, Sam and Stephanie for their company on this exceptional journey around the small isles.

Club Together

Manchester Canoe Club is based in Marple on the banks of the river Goyt to the east of Stockport. This was where I some of my formative paddling years learning all about moving water, slalom and river touring.

Last weekend I was joined by some of the Manchester gang on Anglesey, for what was to be the first time in a sea kayak for many of them.

On Saturday morning, having collected kayaks from 'Summit to Sea', we headed off to Bull Bay on the north coast in search of rockhopping and adventure.

The rockhopping was great fun but the brickworks at Porth Wen was a real treat where we found plenty more small gaps to get stuck into.

Thanks to to the gang for filling the weekend with so much entertainment and good fun. I'm sure we'll do it all again very soon.

Spring Twitter

I have never known the birds around my flat to be so lively. Over the last 6 weeks I have heard robins and great tits singing from 3 o'clock in the morning.

Just outside my bedroom window there is an oak tree. This is where a pair of courting crows chose to declare their partnership to the rest of the neighbourhood. Once they had woken me up (around 5am) they would fly away and quietly find their breakfast.

The antics of the smaller birds like blue tits, robins and goldcrests always keep me entertained. When the Goldfinches turn up there is never a dull moment. With that flash of colour, it comes as no surprise that their name in Gaelic translates as 'light of the forest'.

The star of the show put in an appearance earlier this week. I had heard him a week earlier making his rat-a-tatt drumming call. I'd love to find out where this greater spotted woodpecker is nesting but he is secretive and good at hiding.

Spring Cleaning

Over the past few months my good friend Trevor has been busy getting involved with the Marine Conservation Society and their Beachwatch scheme.

Trevor has chosen a stretch of beach on the Lleyn Peninsula. With some voluntary help from friends old and new, he hopes to conduct regular surveys and organise clean up events.

Today we conducted a detailed survey into the beach litter along a designated 100 metre stretch of Porth y Nant beach at the foot of Nant Gwrtheyrn.

Whilst the survey litter was being sorted and listed, the rest of us continued to clear plastic debris from a one kilometre stretch of beach.

It is really quite satisfying to see the visual difference that we have made. It was exhausting carrying the 32 bags of rubbish up the hill but we'll be back!

Spring is springing!

What a relief! At last the weather seems to be warming up a little. The banks of the river Mersey are beginning to dry out a little and signs of life are popping up in sheltered places.

Of course the snowdrops have been flowering for a while now but they look all the more dazzling lit by shafts of late winter sunshine.

Its always a nice surprise to find a solitary primrose bursting its way through the leaf litter on the edge of oak woodland.

In spring time crocus colours never fail to amaze. However, this part of the Mersey Valley is famed for a variety that flowers in the Autumn long after the leaves have died back.

There may be snow on the hills

Driving up the A5 towards the mountains of Snowdonia it was difficult to see whether there was snow on the tops or not. We could see a dusting on some of the higher slopes but anything higher was cloaked in low cloud.

As we scrambled our way up on to the cold and gloomy heights of Pen yr Ole Wen, the ground became littered with snow granules like polystyrene. It wasn't worth hanging around on this inhospitable summit so we headed north east along the ridge towards Carnedd Dafydd.

Just as we arrived we were treated to a few breaks in the cloud giving us teasing glimpses of blue sky and brief 'peek-a boo' from Anglesey. During our lunch break the cloud broke almost completely leaving us in dazzling sunshine with the peaks of Snowdonia revealing themselves one by one.

In spite of the warming sun it was too chilly to stop for long so we headed east for the next peak on the ridge. Carnedd Llewelyn is inhabited by a lone raven that has developed a liking for hill walkers' snacks, especially chocolate biscuits.

Once satisfied, the raven allowed us to leave. We quickly descended along the ridge that leads to a short scramble up Pen yr Helgi Du. From this last peak we cruised down the gentle grassy slopes to the A5 and back to the car with 'Llewelyn the mighty' bathed in the last of the days wintry sunshine.

Winter break and festive frolics

Christmas time is my cue to escape the festive norm get as much fresh air as possible! Christmas Day was spent mountain biking with Chris and Jill around the moors near Darwen in Lancashire. We got all sorts of weather in one day so I was grateful to finish up at their house with mulled wine and a fish supper.

Photo: Chris Bolton

The next day I left sanity behind when I attended the Manchester Canoe Club annual Boxing Day paddle dressed as a Christmas fairy complete with too-too and wand. I'm still trying to work out how I'll ever live that one down!

The embarrassment being to much to bear in my home town, I headed off to Anglesey... right into the teeth of a howling gale! Strong winds and heavy rain pounded the Anglesey Outdoors Centre to the extent that I couldn't sleep for the noise and movement in the building.

Between storms I managed to get out to do some paddling. I joined Liverpool Canoe Club for a pleasant trip along the coast near to Moelfe and Dulas. This was a bright and breezy trip which took in a visit to Ynys Dulas.

A couple of days later I joined John, Aled and Steve on one of their lung busting race training sessions on the Menai Strait. Circuits, sprints and recovery... all rather similar to track sessions with the local running club, only this was in strong tidal flow, and at night!

Finally, I dashed through a whistle stop tour of Llanberis, Brynrefail and Porthmadog before seeing in the New Year with a sizeable dram next to a bonfire on Criccieth beach. Happy New Year!

The Burrs

As winter begins some of my paddling is becoming more inland based. There are a few entertaining venues close to home. One such place is The Burrs Country Park near Bury. There is a cafe which serves hot drinks, cake and snacks. The Brown Cow pub is nice and warm for apres paddle drinks and pub grub.

The river Irwell provides a short stretch of grade 2 water that begins with an 18 ft sloping weir. Great fun to slide down.

Either in your kayak...

Or without your kayak!

There is also the convenience of a canal so when you have reached the bottom of the site, you can paddle all the way back to the top to do it all again. However, the canal is infested with weed!