Views from Nantlle Ridge

Just over a week ago I went to explore the Nantlle Ridge in Snowdonia with my brother Chris. I have often looked at its distinctive skyline from the southern shores of Anglesey and often wondered what the view would be like from up there. Many years ago I had an epic climb at Cwm Silyn but missed out on the view as we completed the last pitch in the dark!

This time we fully intended to complete our activities in daylight hours. We parked at Rhyd Ddu and made our way to the buttress that leads steeply to the summit of Y Garn. The winding path ends up being quite hard work but as we quickly gained height, the views down Nant Colwyn towards Beddgelert combined with a little 'summit fever' spurred us on...

The summit was bleak, misty and strewn with cobbly rocks. Every now and then we got a brief murky view across the Menai Strait to southern Anglesey.

Photo: Chris Krawiecki

The route to the next peak, Mynydd Drws-y-Coed was along a wind beaten rocky ridge with slimy rock with ice patches. Before complaining we reminded ourselves that we had set out wishing for an adventure. Perhaps we weren't careful enough with our wishes.

Easier ground led us to Trum y Ddysgl. We descended down a steep narrow ridge and found a sheltered spot in the sun to stop for lunch. The view to the south was idyllic with the Afon Dwyfor glistening with the reflections of the golden winter sunshine. That valley is called Cwm Pennant and its beauty is immortalised in a well-known poem by R Williams Parry. The poem ends with the the famous sentiment that roughly translates as, "Oh Lord, why did you make Cwm Pennant so beautiful, yet the life of a shepherd so brief?"

After lunch we climbed to the nearby Mynydd Tal y Mignedd to investigate the monument at its summit. It was built to commemorate the diamond jubilee of Queen Victoria. As the sun was sinking lower in the sky we sensed that it was time to return route. We headed back to Trum y Ddysgl and began our steep descent along a steep ridge that runs south-east towards Beddgelert Forest.

The walk through the dark mossy forest completed a day full of variety with steep paths, slippery scrambling, amazing views, a Victorian monument and a touch of adventure.

My thanks to Chris for his company on my second visit to the Nantlle Ridge but this one was completed in daylight and we were back in time for tea!

River Dee by Canoe

The river Dee from Llangollen to Erbistock is regarded as a classic trip for canoeists. The valley is steep sided so the low winter sunshine rarely gets a look in and leaves this place with a reputation for cold winter paddles.

We launched from the Ponsonby Arms car park just near the bridge at Llangollen having already left a couple of vehicles down river at Erbistock. The river is mostly Grade 1 & 2 with the possibility a couple of grade 3ish stretches.

We found some entertainment in the rapid that leads into Trevor Bridge but the fun was ours as we all remained dry. We also had plenty of fun surfing the wave beneath the bridge.

After that the water relented but only slightly. There was still plenty to concentrate on. This was made tricky because all I wanted to do was gaze upwards at the amazing Pontcysyllte Aqueduct towering more than 120 feet above the river.

We stopped for a hot drink and snack in a rare patch of sunshine at Ty Mawr Country Park. In spite of the sunshine it was too cold to stop for long so we headed on to pass beneath the spectacular Cefn railway viaduct.

From here the river levels off and its a much easier ride between steep wooded banks and some more open countryside. The final challenge is the weir just upstream from Erbistock. We landed to have a look from the bank to see if it would be safe. It looked quite lively! It was actually really good fun to paddle through some more white water before ending our trip on the bank beneath The Boat Inn at Erbistock. 

Festive Fairbourne

Once the excesses of Wigilia, Christmas Day and Boxing Day were consumed it was time to head off in search of adventure and some gentle exercise. A small group of us rented a cottage in Fairbourne at the mouth of the Mawddach estuary in North Wales.

After settling in to our accommodation we began to explore the local area for a short walk. From Penmaenpool Andy and I crossed the toll bridge and took the steep path up through the woods to the Precipice Walk. The views over the Mawddach Estuary are spectacular!

On the following day, having got our bearings we decided to head up into the valleys for a canoe adventure on the river Dyfi. We started near Aberangell and we were soon weaving our way along tree-lined river banks and between beams of golden winter sunlight. Its a pleasant and easy paddle with gentle rapids and views of the broad valley beyond.

Another day brought on more exploration of the area around Fairbourne and Barmouth. We made our way along the coast path towards the timber rail and footbridge that leads across the Mawddach Estuary to Barmouth. This bridge is a popular crossing. People seem to come from miles around to experience this pilgrimage. The beach and the shops at Barmouth were busy for a winter's day and I wondered if I had got the seasons wrong somehow.

Our route back took us along the Mawddach Trail and away from the crowds. It was nice to finish the day on the wild side enjoying what nature has to show at this time of year.

For most of our stay the weather has been mild but the strong winds kept us off the sea. Eventually on New Year's Eve the wind dropped and we set of on a dawn raid on the Mawddach Estuary. We laughed soon after sunrise on the shore opposite Barmouth and took the flood tide north to Penmaenpool. At times we had to be cunning to dodge the sandbanks but it was worth it for the views up the valley in the morning sunlight. After snacks and mulled wine we made our return to Fairbourne with ease helped by the wind on our backs.

After a hearty New Year's Eve supper washed down with a generous glug of wine we headed off to the beach to see in 2020 with a beach bonfire and the waves crashing beneath our feet.

I'd like to express my thanks to Chris, Dawn, Andy and Michelle for their company on this wonderful festive trip!