Skye & The Outer Hebredies

Earlier this month me and my friend Sarah set off for the west coast of Scotland on a road trip. Our plan was to do some hiking, coastal walks and sea kayaking. It was a delight to get away through the highlands, Glen Coe, beyond Fort William and along the beautiful road to Arisaig. The late afternoon view across to Eigg was perfect with the moody skies.

The Isle of Skye welcomed us with a walk to its southernmost headland Point of Sleat. We were rewarded with steep rocky paths, deserted beaches, breathtaking panoramic views and muddy feet!

I had only been to Skye before by kayak so had not see any of the interior. The day we went to see the Old Man of Storr, Mother Nature was in a grumpy mood. There were only rare glimpses of sunshine between frequent blustery showers. Optimists describe this kind of weather as 'atmospheric'. I certainly agree because this combination produces rainbows.

Staying for a couple of days at Glenbrittle gave us the chance to rest up. However, it wasn't long before we were itching to get out kayaking. We found caves, waterfalls and otters all with the splendid backdrop of The Cuillin Hills smothered in tumbling mist.

A couple of days later we arrived on the Isle of Harris and headed immediately for the famous Luskentyre Beach. It is prized for being one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. There are hills nearby where you can easily reach a vantage point, or you can while away the day wandering, exploring and generally messing around.

Heading north to the Isle of Lewis we found Bostadh Beach on Great Bernera. This is a great place to expolre. The family we met as we arrived had been kayaking and seen dolphins! There are also the remains of an Iron Age village. By far the coolest feature is the large bell mounted on the rocks. When the tide comes in, the waves wash against a hinged paddle which in turn rings the bell.

As we packed up to leave Bernera we realised that we were heading into the latter part of our trip. This is possibly why this local resident was reluctant for me to get to my car. It was a little easier to head home because the weather was deteriorating and daylight becoming more scarce. I can't wait to get back!

Further afield

As summer progresses we are now permitted to travel further afield. A gentle walk in the Peak District was called for but this was easier said than done because many folks had the same idea and it was difficult to find anywhere to park. Eventually I found parking in the woods next to Ladybower.

I couldn't wait to get back to Anglesey! Some short easy paddles in the sea, coastal walks and simply enjoying the scenery that I had not seen for ages.

Most of all it was all about meeting up with friends, getting out on the sea and messing about in boats! Having the canal close by had been a lifeline during lockdown but being able to take in the sea air was heavenly.

Now that campsites are opening it's all about enjoying the warm summer weather, spending the evening round a campfire with a beer or two and sleeping in a tent.

Lately I've been heading north into the Yorkshire Dales and further into Southern Scotland to test myself with some gentle hillwalking. The waterfalls and woodland of Swaledale around Keld are captivating. 

Covid Spring

Getting out and about is key to making a good recovery from my hip fracture. The weather gods have been good to us in lockdown life giving us warm, dry sunny weather. I set myself daily mini-adventures. I set off on my crutches early each day in search of what springtime has to offer.

There is always plenty going on at this time of year. Green shoots emerging, buds bursting and birds singing everywhere. The ranks of the resident British songbirds are reinforced by warblers which migrate here from Africa bringing the dawn chorus to a crescendo in mid-May. One of my favourite highlights is listening to woodpeckers drumming in the woods. 

I have also been enjoying foraging for food. Wild garlic regularly goes into my salads when I can get it and I have been using nettles in my curries in place of spinach.

I was given a DIY manual by the physiotherapists when I was discharged from hospital. With physio clinics unavailable I have enthusiastically keeping to the routine. This, along with daily walks seems to be paying off. I've even been very carefully doing some short bike rides!

Ultimately I have been wanting to get back into a boat. My friend Chris has been helping by meeting me at the canal in Sale with a canoe for me to use. The lates news is that I have managed to get into my sea kayak without too much trouble and even been out on my stand up paddleboard.

Broken

Help was soon on hand as many of my fiends came to see what all my swearing was about. After all the pain subsided a little I got some help from a couple of friends, got up onto my left leg and began to assess the damage. There was no way I could put weight onto my right leg. I managed to hobble my way round to the passenger seat of Chris' car and get in. I was lucky that Chris had offered to give me a lift for the weekend.

It had only been a silly stumble. Surely this couldn't be all that serious???

My ideas ranged from pretending that nothing much had happened, and that I would be alright in the morning, to realising that I had fractured my hip and should go to hospital as soon as I got to Manchester. 

As we got closer to home I called my neighbour Lindsey who is a paramedic and was off-duty that day. She asked all about my injury and offered to take me to A&E. I managed to hop / hobble into Lindsey's car then off we went to hospital. Once there I managed to transfer to a wheelchair without too much trouble. Before too long I got through triage and again managed to transfer from the wheelchair to a bed without too much pain or difficulty. This led to the idea that my injury might not be too bad after all.

The radiographer's expression changed once she saw the images. I asked, "Is there anything you can tell me?" In a lowered tone, she muttered, "Don't move! It is broken."

The Doctor looked at the x-ray and began to explain... I'd didn't understand his words so I interjected and in a hopeful manner suggested, "Okay, so can I go home now?" The doctor replied, "err... no!" Before I could express my disappointment he explained that I would be immediately admitted for an operation to pin the fracture in the morning.

My horror was somewhat subdued by the generous dosage of painkillers. On the on hand I felt comforted by the professionalism of the hospital staff, and on the other I was terrified at the prospect of major surgery. I had never spent the night in hospital before.

The next morning the operation went really well. For me it was just like switching the light off for a couple of hours. To my surprise I was able to get out of bed the very next day and use a Zimmer frame to get around. 

One day later I could use crutches, then after four days in hospital I was released back into society just before the UK went into the first of the coronavirus lockdowns.

Views from Nantlle Ridge

Just over a week ago I went to explore the Nantlle Ridge in Snowdonia with my brother Chris. I have often looked at its distinctive skyline from the southern shores of Anglesey and often wondered what the view would be like from up there. Many years ago I had an epic climb at Cwm Silyn but missed out on the view as we completed the last pitch in the dark!

This time we fully intended to complete our activities in daylight hours. We parked at Rhyd Ddu and made our way to the buttress that leads steeply to the summit of Y Garn. The winding path ends up being quite hard work but as we quickly gained height, the views down Nant Colwyn towards Beddgelert combined with a little 'summit fever' spurred us on...

The summit was bleak, misty and strewn with cobbly rocks. Every now and then we got a brief murky view across the Menai Strait to southern Anglesey.

Photo: Chris Krawiecki

The route to the next peak, Mynydd Drws-y-Coed was along a wind beaten rocky ridge with slimy rock with ice patches. Before complaining we reminded ourselves that we had set out wishing for an adventure. Perhaps we weren't careful enough with our wishes.

Easier ground led us to Trum y Ddysgl. We descended down a steep narrow ridge and found a sheltered spot in the sun to stop for lunch. The view to the south was idyllic with the Afon Dwyfor glistening with the reflections of the golden winter sunshine. That valley is called Cwm Pennant and its beauty is immortalised in a well-known poem by R Williams Parry. The poem ends with the the famous sentiment that roughly translates as, "Oh Lord, why did you make Cwm Pennant so beautiful, yet the life of a shepherd so brief?"

After lunch we climbed to the nearby Mynydd Tal y Mignedd to investigate the monument at its summit. It was built to commemorate the diamond jubilee of Queen Victoria. As the sun was sinking lower in the sky we sensed that it was time to return route. We headed back to Trum y Ddysgl and began our steep descent along a steep ridge that runs south-east towards Beddgelert Forest.

The walk through the dark mossy forest completed a day full of variety with steep paths, slippery scrambling, amazing views, a Victorian monument and a touch of adventure.

My thanks to Chris for his company on my second visit to the Nantlle Ridge but this one was completed in daylight and we were back in time for tea!

River Dee by Canoe

The river Dee from Llangollen to Erbistock is regarded as a classic trip for canoeists. The valley is steep sided so the low winter sunshine rarely gets a look in and leaves this place with a reputation for cold winter paddles.

We launched from the Ponsonby Arms car park just near the bridge at Llangollen having already left a couple of vehicles down river at Erbistock. The river is mostly Grade 1 & 2 with the possibility a couple of grade 3ish stretches.

We found some entertainment in the rapid that leads into Trevor Bridge but the fun was ours as we all remained dry. We also had plenty of fun surfing the wave beneath the bridge.

After that the water relented but only slightly. There was still plenty to concentrate on. This was made tricky because all I wanted to do was gaze upwards at the amazing Pontcysyllte Aqueduct towering more than 120 feet above the river.

We stopped for a hot drink and snack in a rare patch of sunshine at Ty Mawr Country Park. In spite of the sunshine it was too cold to stop for long so we headed on to pass beneath the spectacular Cefn railway viaduct.

From here the river levels off and its a much easier ride between steep wooded banks and some more open countryside. The final challenge is the weir just upstream from Erbistock. We landed to have a look from the bank to see if it would be safe. It looked quite lively! It was actually really good fun to paddle through some more white water before ending our trip on the bank beneath The Boat Inn at Erbistock. 

Festive Fairbourne

Once the excesses of Wigilia, Christmas Day and Boxing Day were consumed it was time to head off in search of adventure and some gentle exercise. A small group of us rented a cottage in Fairbourne at the mouth of the Mawddach estuary in North Wales.

After settling in to our accommodation we began to explore the local area for a short walk. From Penmaenpool Andy and I crossed the toll bridge and took the steep path up through the woods to the Precipice Walk. The views over the Mawddach Estuary are spectacular!

On the following day, having got our bearings we decided to head up into the valleys for a canoe adventure on the river Dyfi. We started near Aberangell and we were soon weaving our way along tree-lined river banks and between beams of golden winter sunlight. Its a pleasant and easy paddle with gentle rapids and views of the broad valley beyond.

Another day brought on more exploration of the area around Fairbourne and Barmouth. We made our way along the coast path towards the timber rail and footbridge that leads across the Mawddach Estuary to Barmouth. This bridge is a popular crossing. People seem to come from miles around to experience this pilgrimage. The beach and the shops at Barmouth were busy for a winter's day and I wondered if I had got the seasons wrong somehow.

Our route back took us along the Mawddach Trail and away from the crowds. It was nice to finish the day on the wild side enjoying what nature has to show at this time of year.

For most of our stay the weather has been mild but the strong winds kept us off the sea. Eventually on New Year's Eve the wind dropped and we set of on a dawn raid on the Mawddach Estuary. We laughed soon after sunrise on the shore opposite Barmouth and took the flood tide north to Penmaenpool. At times we had to be cunning to dodge the sandbanks but it was worth it for the views up the valley in the morning sunlight. After snacks and mulled wine we made our return to Fairbourne with ease helped by the wind on our backs.

After a hearty New Year's Eve supper washed down with a generous glug of wine we headed off to the beach to see in 2020 with a beach bonfire and the waves crashing beneath our feet.

I'd like to express my thanks to Chris, Dawn, Andy and Michelle for their company on this wonderful festive trip!