Knoydart Revisited

Back in 2004 Kirstine and I visited the remote Knoydart peninsula for the first time. Like last time we drove to the Silversands campsite just north of Arisaig. After relaxing for a couple of nights we paddled along the white sandy beaches and rocky shores to Mallaig and into the depths of Loch Nevis.

Loch Nevis is hemmed in by mountains, moorland and steep wooded shores. There are no roads to Knoydart and its village of Inverie so the only way to get there is by sea, or on foot from Loch Arkaig 20 miles away.

Hill walking is very popular here. There are several 'Monroes' and a handful or 'Corbetts'.  Ladhar Bheinn is the highest peak at 1010m. Last time we climbed Meall Buidhe (942m) and this time we climed a couple of lower peaks that overlook Inverie Bay and the Long Beach campsite. We set off walking along the Inverie River to Loch an Dubh-Lochan. From there we walked steeply amongst the crags to the summit of Stob an Uillt-fhearthna (661m).

The lower south-facing slopes are littered with primroses. Once on the summit we were surrounded by handsome peaks strung together by bold, craggy ridges. From there we went south-west along the ridge to Sgurr Coire Choinnichean (796m). The mountains and ridges were all behind us with Inverie Bay below and views in font of us across the sea to the islands of Skye, Eigg and Rum.

Aching from the walking, we opted for a gentle paddle up Loch Nevis the next day. We made for the narrows at Kylesknoydart looking for seals. It seemed strange to see them so far away from the open ocean. We left them to their fishing and made for the shelter of Tarbet Bay for lunch in the sun. We were greeted by Frank who lives in the old church there and runs it as a bothy. He invited us in for tea and jokes! His invitation was impossible to resist and it was even harder to leave. We must return another time and spend the night.

It was difficult to find motivation to pack up the next day and leave. Since our first visit only a few things have changed but Knoydart and Inverie have retained their remote charm and warm welcome. We said a final farewell to Inverie by visiting the cafe for pop and ice creams in the midday sun before setting off along the northern shores of Loch Nevis.

The waters here are so deep and blue with spreading forests of seaweed.

The 'Madonna' blesses the waters of Loch Nevis and all those who enter and leave this way.

Puffin Island & the Menai Strait

I recently visited the sunny and sheltered shores of eastern Anglesey. Its good to know that some things don't change much.

Puffin Island was buzzing with thousands of cliff nesting sea birds and its waters surrounded by inquisitive seals. The Arctic and sandwich Terns have arrived and their hovering and plunge diving for fish is as entertaining as ever.

Heading southwest down the Menai Strait we passed Beaumaris before the tidal stream picked up and carried us swiftly towards Menai Bridge and the Swellies.

The currents in the Swellies have a fearsome reputation amongst mariners but with the right skills and knowledge the waves and eddies can be great fun in canoes and Kayaks.

The music on the video is from the album 'Aurora' by Michael McGoldrick. The photos are by Kev Robinson.

Gwydyr Forest

On a soggy weekend a couple of weeks ago Chris and I headed off in search of some hill walking in the Snowdonia National Park. There was a thick blanket of drizzly grey cloud hiding the peaks and ridges that we love, so we thought we would try something a little different.

The waters of Llyn Geirionedd and Llyn Crafnant are separated by the thickly wooded slopes of Mynydd Deulyn in the Gwydyr Forest. Neither of us fancied a route march on exposed windy slopes in poor visibility, so a walk along the lake shores and through the woods made a pleasant change.

The views along the shores were far better than from the higher peaks. The waters of Llyn Geirionedd are strangely clear but this lake has been polluted by water leaking from nearby disused lead mines. In contrast, Llyn Crafnant is a popular fishing spot and there is a cafe that overlooks the lake.

The slopes of Mynydd Deulyn have a variety of woodland. Areas of densely planted spruce make for a spooky scene reminiscent of walking through caves or vaulted cellars.

In the occasional clearing there were small twisted oak trees sprouting with ferns and thickly draped in mosses. We hurried on quickly back to where we had left the car in case of ghosts, witches or other such wild beings.

The Cumberland Ring

This weekend, Kate, Sean and I will start a challenging kayaking trip. The Cumberland Ring is so called because is circumnavigates The English Lake District; the land of the Cumberland Ring sausage.

The route takes in the rivers Lune,  Eden and miles of Cumbrian coast. We have been supplied with some excellent kit. We will be using Pyranha Fusion kayaks for the rivers, P&H Cetus for the sea, clothing from Peak UK and we will have Mitchell Blades for propulsion. With regard to fuel, we will be fortified by award winning Cumberland Ring sausages from Cranston's of Penrith and Sticky Toffee Pudding from the Cartmel Village shop.

We will be updating a dedicated blog at the end of each day.

Book Ahoy!

Over the last 3 years I have been busy researching, photographing and writing about the shores of northern England and the Isle of Man. I have worn out at least one kayak, strained several friendships, overwhelmed two computers and drowned a couple of cameras. As for pubs, cafes and chip shops... let's not go there!

At last the end seems in sight. The new guidebook is called Northern England and Isle of Man and describes '50 great Sea Kayak Voyages'. Pesda Press have announced the publication date as 2nd of May. There is more information about the book here.

Robbie Burns and the Welsh dragon

Always keen on finding excuses for a celebration, Kev and Gill from NWSK laid on a weekend in Wales to include a Burns Night Supper. We rented a grand house in Harlech ideally situated between the mountains and the sea.

Some went for and early morning paddle on the Mawddach Estuary, whilst Kirstine me and several others opted for lofty heights of Cnicht. This mountain gives is a little off the beaten track but offers excellent views over the Moelwyns, Dwyryd Estuary and the Snowdon Massif.

Despite there being few scots among our number, we managed to embrace the concept of following a brisk day in the outdoors with a hearty plateful of haggis, neaps and tatties. Pudding was homemade ice cream made with a good quality 16 year old malt whisky. Finally, a wee dram of yet another fine malt made for the perfect nightcap!

   

Festive Fun

The wintry freeze didn't show any sign of loosening its grip during the Christmas period. With the Mersey Valley looking like a winter wonderland, we made our traditional pilgrimage to the pub on our cross-country skis.

On Boxing Day I met up with other members of Manchester Canoe Club for the traditional festive ice breaker. The fun started with a spot of canoe sledging...

Following a series of overnight temperatures of around -10 celcius, the River Goyt was partially frozen over. However, that was not enough to put off over 30 paddlers from making the tour from Brabyn's Park to the club site.

In the bleak midwinter

Winter arrived early. Its hard to imagine that we have been in the grips of this cold snap for 3 weeks now.

Back in November it became unseasonably cold but the ducks could swim freely and all seemed well.

Then the snow came. Actually not all that much here in Manchester but not very far away in most directions there have been record snowfalls. Still there is enough to have a few short local outings on my cross country skis.

Finally, me and a few neighbours have been chipping away at the slippery ice that has accumulated on the sloping driveway to our flats. All the hard work was done by 4 o'clock which meant it was time for tea and a jolly good natter.

Storm Gathering Saturday & Sunday

Friday's strong winds gradually died away overnight leaving the sea smooth with enough swell to keep things entertaining. We launched from the sandy beach next to Beadnell Harbour. Once we paddled round the point we followed the coast heading north for the Farne Islands. Most of the thousands of breeding sea birds have now left the island leaving cormorants, shags, eider ducks and a few migrating wading birds.

(photo Mark Tozer)

We made our way from the Inner Farnes out across Staple Sound where the swell was greater and picked up breaking heavily in some of the narrow Channels.  Landing briefly on Longstone the group headed back along the south side of the archipelago. The Pinnacles of Staple Island were being bombarded with walls of water foaming and surging creating spectacular waterspouts.

Journeys' end was at St Aidan's Beach just outside Seahouses. The beach was sheltered from the most powerful swell leaving some delightfully clean 2-3ft waves. Even though the light was fading, it was difficult to leave the water and the waves behind but Ollie reminded us that we had a bus to catch!

The nearby Chainbridge Honey Farm had provided their 50 year old 'Routemaster' London bus to take us from the 'Pot-a-Doodle-Doo' wigwam village to the 'Barn at Beal' education centre. Upon arrival we were all treated to samples of Lindisfarne Mead, locally made cheese and steaming bowlfuls of hot stew. The traditional slideshow showcased the local coastline and kept quite lively with alcoholic prizes served up between occasional scenes of nudity!

Back at the wigwams fun, frolics and alcoholics carried on late into the night (photo Mark Tozer).

Sunday's paddling was based along the coastal cliffs between Berwick-upon-Tweed and the Scottish town of Eyemouth. To start with there was more surf to play in but the swell was obviously dying away. This meant that we could embark upon a myriad of rockhopping challenges and various kayak caving adventures.

Our lunch stop was Marshall Meadows Bay which is a huge sandstone amphitheatre. Part way up one of the cliffs there is an inclined tunnel that leads to the caravan site that overlooks the area with panoramic views along the coast.

Further on up the coast, we made our way between, behind and sometimes beneath rocks all the way to Eyemouth. All too soon the gathering was over. Many were saying their goodbyes here whilst packing up kit in the descending evening cool before heading off home.

Many thanks to Ollie Jay and Active4Seasons for hosting and organizing the gathering and all of the associated fun and games. A whole bunch of like minded people now have a whole bunch of new friends.

There are more photos of the event on the facebook gallery here...

Storm Gathering Eve

The long journey from Manchester started at 7 o'clock this morning. The first stop was at Preston Brook to collect a couple of P&H Delphins. There was also a special treat in store. Fresh out of the mould was a prototype of the Delpin's composite 'big brother', 'Aries'. I'll be playing with this beauty for most of this coming weekend.

After a long drive to Berwick-upon-Tweed, I met up with Ollie Jay at Spittal beach for some fun in the messy wind blown surf. The sets came rolling in handsomely.

The rising tide brought us run after exhilarating run in the golden autumn sunshine. Eventually, the strong southerly wind sapped our strength and it was time for tea!.

Wild Northumberland

 

A couple of weeks ago Kirstine and I headed off to the Northumberland coast for a few days break. The weather was varied which meant there was scope for a little bit of everything. One of the highlights was a walk right round the Holy Island of Lindisfarne. It has such a varied coast with sand dunes, small cliffs and boulder strewn beaches. The photograph above is of the northeast point called Emmanuel Head.  

 On one of the more blustery days I went hunting for some surf. In most places it was just too big and intimidating so I headed for the shelter of  St Mary's Haven near Low Newton. The surfing was good fun in the new P&H Delphin even though conditions in the haven were a little tame.

When it rained, we headed north of the border to Eyemouth in Scotland (but only just!) We had a classic haggis and chips lunch before heading for the Eyemouth Maritime Centre which has a fantastic display of old smugglers boats and relics.

 This time of year there is plenty of bird life in and around the estuarine mud flats around Holy Island. The next time I will be back to these shores will be to attend the 5th Storm Gathering meet. Which will be hosted by Active 4 Seasons on the weekend of 30th-31st of October.

Snowdonia Mountains and Coast

The mild temperatures and the promise of clearing skies inspired a trip to the hills of Snowdonia. My brother, Chris and I chose to explore the remote valley of Cwm Egiau, which lies east of the Carneddau. As soon as we left the road head the mist came down restricting the visibility to less than 30 metres at times.

There are few paths to follow in this wild valley so our combined navigation skills were put thoroughly to the test.

The summit of Foel Grach was the first peak that we had aimed for. When we arrived we were greeted with an energy sapping wintry gale and penetrating drizzle. We sheltered in the refuge where we were joined by another sodden soul. Following a brief exchange of navigation tactics, Chris and I decided to beat a hasty retreat down into the valley, back the way we had come from.

Once safely down out of the wind, the weather began to rapidly improve. Just our luck! We walked the last couple of miles to the car in warm sunshine.

So as not to feel short changed from our early retreat from the hills, we headed off to Anglesey for some coastal views. Llandwyn Island is beautiful on any day but so much the better when bathed in golden autumn sunshine.

Canolfan Tryweryn

Many moons ago Canolfan Tryweryn was a regular haunt of mine and the class 3-4 white water rapids were a familiar and routine challenge. My return today followed a car journey filled with anticipation punctuated with moments of apprehension.

The river scenery so perfectly beautiful in the golden Autumn sunshine with misty shafts of light piercing the woodland canopy. In many places you can see the rocks and pebbles on the river bed as the waters run clear from the Llyn Celyn dam. The water is powerful and fast-flowing. Entering the evocatively named 'Graveyard' I am immediately reminded of how fast things happen here. Any loss of control and I am whisked along, bouncing over, and crashing through tumbling water and churning waves.

All around me life on the river seems every bit as I remember. Some poor inexperienced soul is shocked to be suddenly swimming in such an uncomfortable and unforgiving situation. Others are having fun surfing standing waves and playing rodeo with the river's insatiable features. Years ago I would be one of them and perhaps with practice I will be again. Today I pass them by.

Scarborough to Robin Hood's Bay

This is a stretch of coast that is beginning to capture the hearts of more than just local paddlers. The iconic headland complete with castle, stands between North Bay and South Bay. Both of these have sweeping sandy beaches that are popular with surfers, as well as the bucket and spade brigade. We headed off north in search of rockhopping, secluded bays and towering cliffs...

Rockhopping can be found immediately to the north of Scarborough at the headland of Scalby Ness. Swell surges through reefs and amongst jagged rock structures from here to the evocatively named 'Sailors Grave' in the shadow of Cromer Point.

Claughton Wyke is a small bay with cliffs rising on each side. The southern entrance has a submerged reef upon which swell can unexpectedly break and unleash powerful breaking surf. This caught all three of us unawares. Two of us escaped the breakers but the remaining poor soul was dealt a punishing swim followed by a barnacle dance.

The next bay is called Hayburn Wyke and is far more welcoming. There are tall cliffs and tree lined slopes with a small waterfall that cascades down onto the pebbly beach. No reefs, no punishing breakers, just some smelly seaweed. Comparatively heavenly!

Curious seals surrounded us as we neared Ravenscar and the entrance to Robin Hood's Bay. As ever we tried to take pictures but for the most part they were camera shy, or perhaps just teasing us.

We set a good pace for the return to Scarborough. The enticing view of the castle and headland drew us closer. As we rounded the headland the unmistakable chip shop aroma hung in the air. Soon after we landed we each awarded ourselves a generous helping of fish, chips and mushy peas.

There are a few more photos from the day's adventures here.

Bottled in Rhoscolyn

I embarked upon a spontaneous weekend to Rhoscolyn, close to Holyhead at the western end of Anglesey. Along with some good friends, I engaged some of the less hospitable waters that the Irish Sea can throw upon Welsh shores.

It is such a joy to paddle in the swell and chop. The breaking waves and sea air, combined with warm southerly breezes are so exhilarating and invigorating. Yet, it is well to remember that these conditions are not for the faint hearted, nor the less experienced venturer...

The local seals chose to take it easy and have a snooze in their typical 'bottle' posture in the shelter of Borthwen that day. After all, Mother Nature knows best.