This last weekend was intended for some catching up with stuff at home but the lure of the coast was just too irresistible during the spell of warm sunny weather. Trev and I were looking for somewhere to hide from the brisk easterly winds that had been forecast.
We arrived at Cemlyn Bay on the north east corner of Anglesey. Beyond the shelter of the bay the sea was a choppy mess of blue and white. However, we spotted a route among the rocks close to the shore leading all the way to Carmel Head.
Before committing ourselves to the overfalls at Carmel Head we landed on a tiny shingle beach and walked over to the other side to check all was well with the sea to the west. It was much calmer so after a short rough stretch we paddled into the smoother waters of Anglesey's west coast.
Passing a series of craggy headlands and sheltered bays we soon arrived at Church Bay. The welsh name of Porth Swtan is derived from the welsh name for whiting. This follows a tradition for naming natural harbour after the fish that were landed there. Trev and I skipped the fish course and went straight for the strawberries and cream scones all washed down with plenty of tea.
On the way back to Cemlyn we spent a long while exploring this areas hidden gem. Ynys y Fydlin has a beautiful pebbly beach, a freshwater lagoon and pine woodland. The moors above give stunning views to the Skerries, and along the coast to North Stack.
Even with the strong easterly wind sweeping down through woods, this place has a magical kind of peace about it.
Monday, May 28, 2012
Thursday, May 24, 2012
The Wobbler
The 'Anglesey Wobbler' is a Greenland balance stool made by 'Anglesey Stick'. I first had a go on one of these at the recent Anglesey Sea Symposium and soon decided to order one.
As soon as it arrived I pulled from the wrapping and set about wobbling. It has the feel of a tippy kayak and its principal benefits are the development of core strength and balance. I can see the potential for various games and competitive challenges around the Wobbler.
Kirstine soon began to find the Wobbler quite addictive and soon forgot that this was meant to be my toy!
As soon as it arrived I pulled from the wrapping and set about wobbling. It has the feel of a tippy kayak and its principal benefits are the development of core strength and balance. I can see the potential for various games and competitive challenges around the Wobbler.
Kirstine soon began to find the Wobbler quite addictive and soon forgot that this was meant to be my toy!
Tuesday, May 01, 2012
Malham Limestone
The last time I was in the Malham area was way back in the 1980s on a geography field trip. This spectacular upland area remains well studied by geologists and popular with walkers. I started my walk by the Malham Tarn Field Centre and quickly made my way to the southern end of the tarn.
Water flows from the tarn, under a road and then disappears. Less that a kilometre from Malham Tarn this substantial beck quietly drains away between a few pebbles and grassy clumps.
Beneath my feet are a myriad of natural tunnels and caverns. This explains why there are valleys and gorges here without water running through them.
This area is famous for its limestone pavements. The spectacular rock formations are attributed to erosion by flowing water but most of the water here has long disappeared underground.
On my way back to Malham Tarn I took in Gordale Scar. This is a steep sided limestone gorge around 100 metres with only a tiny stream in the bottom. When I was last here this place seemed awe inspiring and huge... and still qualifies.
Throughout my wanderings amongst the limestone of Yorkshire, I was treated to the occasional glimpse of a wheatear, especially in the more sheltered spots.
Water flows from the tarn, under a road and then disappears. Less that a kilometre from Malham Tarn this substantial beck quietly drains away between a few pebbles and grassy clumps.
Beneath my feet are a myriad of natural tunnels and caverns. This explains why there are valleys and gorges here without water running through them.
This area is famous for its limestone pavements. The spectacular rock formations are attributed to erosion by flowing water but most of the water here has long disappeared underground.
Throughout my wanderings amongst the limestone of Yorkshire, I was treated to the occasional glimpse of a wheatear, especially in the more sheltered spots.
Monday, April 23, 2012
Flamborough Head
I arrived at the pretty village Flamborogh at around teatime on Friday. There had been a few showers but the clouds were moving out to sea. With early evening sunshine casting a golden light, I couldn't resist the temptation of taking a couple of photos of the lighthouses before meeting the gang at the Grange Campsite.
The next morning we set off for the nearby seaside town of Filey. The bay is protected from the heavy seas of the north by a low rock headland called Filey Brigg. We set off to the 'Brigg End' to see what fun could be had there. As soon as we began playing in the swell among the rocks, the weather came in pelting us with heavy rain and hail.
This was our cue to head south across the bay towards the chalk cliffs of Speeton and Bempton. These cliffs rise to an imposing 135 metres vertically from the sea and play host to the largest mainland Gannet colony in Europe.
Following lunch some of us took in a little surfing before heading off around the most exposed part of this amazing headland.
Fom South Landing to Breil Nook the seas were heavy and confused with swell bouncing back off the vertical cliffs.
As we paddled on towards the most easterly point, the seas relented and we got excellent views of the lighthouse across Selwicks Bay leaving only a few more kilometres to our final destination of South Landing.
On Sunday there was little energy left for a big day out so we took a short trip from South Landing through sunshine and showers with the aim of having tea and biscuits at the beach cafe at Bridlington.
Many thanks to Ken Oliver and Fiona Dubber from 1st Wet and Wild for their hospitality and to the rest of the gang for their company.
The next morning we set off for the nearby seaside town of Filey. The bay is protected from the heavy seas of the north by a low rock headland called Filey Brigg. We set off to the 'Brigg End' to see what fun could be had there. As soon as we began playing in the swell among the rocks, the weather came in pelting us with heavy rain and hail.
This was our cue to head south across the bay towards the chalk cliffs of Speeton and Bempton. These cliffs rise to an imposing 135 metres vertically from the sea and play host to the largest mainland Gannet colony in Europe.
Following lunch some of us took in a little surfing before heading off around the most exposed part of this amazing headland.
Fom South Landing to Breil Nook the seas were heavy and confused with swell bouncing back off the vertical cliffs.
As we paddled on towards the most easterly point, the seas relented and we got excellent views of the lighthouse across Selwicks Bay leaving only a few more kilometres to our final destination of South Landing.
On Sunday there was little energy left for a big day out so we took a short trip from South Landing through sunshine and showers with the aim of having tea and biscuits at the beach cafe at Bridlington.
Many thanks to Ken Oliver and Fiona Dubber from 1st Wet and Wild for their hospitality and to the rest of the gang for their company.
Wednesday, April 11, 2012
Paddling the mists of Knoydart
The Easter weekend brought Kirstine and I to meet up with some of the gang, with whom we will be paddling in Greenland later this year. The journey from Manchester was hardly encouraging. We battled high winds and frequent showers of sleet until we found some improvement north of the Scottish border by teatime, we arrived at the beautifully situated Silversands Campsite just north of Arisaig where crystal skies gave way to a dazzling sunset.
The next morning we set off into a cold and murky morning. After stopping at Mallaig for a few last minute supplies we set about finding a legendary bunkhouse nestled deep in a sheltered inlet along the shores of Loch Nevis. It is a basic set up in an old chapel. There is coal fired range, basic lighting as well as hot and cold running water. The building retains its old charm whilst adorned with postcards from well-traveled past visitors. The proprietor is called Frank who now in his mid-eighties has been living there for more than 25 years. He plays accordion and tells stories and rude jokes but also accepts assistance in entertainment from his electric singing moose head.
Having spent the night at the bunkhouse, the Sandaig Islands made famous by Gavin Maxwell and his love of otters, would be next on our tour. The weather remained poor with mostly mist and drizzle and to cap it all, a cripplingly chilly headwind.
However, just as we arrived the wind dropped and the skies cleared.
Late afternoon sunshine drenched this idyllic and historic scene.
Following a moonlit night, the mists and rain returned in the morning. We paddled south and made for Inverie for beer and hot food and music at The Old Forge. In the morning we struck camp early. We were fully equipped with sore heads and weary limbs in readiness for a hard paddle into a stiff headwind.
The stretch from Mallaig back to Silversands was especially tough into rough seas and squalls of force 4-6. Having landed safely, we found fish and chips plentiful scalding hot tea in a warm cafe.
The next morning we set off into a cold and murky morning. After stopping at Mallaig for a few last minute supplies we set about finding a legendary bunkhouse nestled deep in a sheltered inlet along the shores of Loch Nevis. It is a basic set up in an old chapel. There is coal fired range, basic lighting as well as hot and cold running water. The building retains its old charm whilst adorned with postcards from well-traveled past visitors. The proprietor is called Frank who now in his mid-eighties has been living there for more than 25 years. He plays accordion and tells stories and rude jokes but also accepts assistance in entertainment from his electric singing moose head.
Having spent the night at the bunkhouse, the Sandaig Islands made famous by Gavin Maxwell and his love of otters, would be next on our tour. The weather remained poor with mostly mist and drizzle and to cap it all, a cripplingly chilly headwind.
However, just as we arrived the wind dropped and the skies cleared.
Late afternoon sunshine drenched this idyllic and historic scene.
Following a moonlit night, the mists and rain returned in the morning. We paddled south and made for Inverie for beer and hot food and music at The Old Forge. In the morning we struck camp early. We were fully equipped with sore heads and weary limbs in readiness for a hard paddle into a stiff headwind.
The stretch from Mallaig back to Silversands was especially tough into rough seas and squalls of force 4-6. Having landed safely, we found fish and chips plentiful scalding hot tea in a warm cafe.
Monday, March 26, 2012
Bardsey Spring
Spring tides and springtime brought the best out in Bardsey Island last weekend. The combination of swell from the south, along with powerful tidal streams brought the surrounding waters dramatically to life all along the rocky shores.
Kev and Gill along with Matt and Chris made the crossing in canoes packed with buoyancy and supplies. The remaining four paddlers carried their cargo in sea kayaks.
Away from the rocks and reefs the sea was pleasantly calm although the booming of the waves pounding the shore was a relentless reminder of the ocean's might. The golden hazy light and the unusually warm temperatures felt more like mid June than late March.
Bird life is getting busy all over the island. The sea birds arriving in huge numbers including the Manx shearwaters. In the hedgerows, amongst the flowering gorse and along the stone walls all manner of small brown birds like wren and dunnock are enjoying rich pickings.
Having spent the night in one of the cottages there was just enough time for a short morning walk before heading back to the mainland.
Kev and Gill along with Matt and Chris made the crossing in canoes packed with buoyancy and supplies. The remaining four paddlers carried their cargo in sea kayaks.
Away from the rocks and reefs the sea was pleasantly calm although the booming of the waves pounding the shore was a relentless reminder of the ocean's might. The golden hazy light and the unusually warm temperatures felt more like mid June than late March.
| meadow pipit |
Having spent the night in one of the cottages there was just enough time for a short morning walk before heading back to the mainland.
Sunday, March 18, 2012
Watch the Birdie
A sunny Sunday morning walk took me through woodland bursting with signs that spring is really upon us.
Not only are the hawthorn and birch trees exploding into action but amongst them the birds are getting busy.
Its always worth dropping in on the visitor centre at Sale Water Park. Although recent cutbacks mean that the centre is no longer open to people every day. However, the bird feeder is regularly stocked up.
By mid-morning all of the main paths were getting busy with people out walking and jogging. In the meantime there were still a few quiet corners down by the ponds where it was business as usual for the heron.
Not only are the hawthorn and birch trees exploding into action but amongst them the birds are getting busy.
Its always worth dropping in on the visitor centre at Sale Water Park. Although recent cutbacks mean that the centre is no longer open to people every day. However, the bird feeder is regularly stocked up.
By mid-morning all of the main paths were getting busy with people out walking and jogging. In the meantime there were still a few quiet corners down by the ponds where it was business as usual for the heron.
Monday, March 12, 2012
River Leven
With painfully slow progress its easy to think that rivers access is going nowhere at all. However, yesterday I paddled the River Leven in the south Lake District. Ten years ago we could only paddle about a mile of this river. We would need to pay a pound for the privilege and be grateful.
These days the river is paddled regularly by small groups along much more of its length. Gradually, times are changing and hopefully more tolerant attitudes will help open up the countryside to more people.
Needless to say, our adventure on the river was a wonderful experience hopping our boats over a series of weirs and down chutes of tumbling, foaming water in rapids that I have never paddled before.
These days the river is paddled regularly by small groups along much more of its length. Gradually, times are changing and hopefully more tolerant attitudes will help open up the countryside to more people.
Needless to say, our adventure on the river was a wonderful experience hopping our boats over a series of weirs and down chutes of tumbling, foaming water in rapids that I have never paddled before.
Saturday, March 10, 2012
Changes at Chrolton Meadows
Chorlton Ees nature reserve was developed on land that was once occupied by Withington Sewage Works. Many of the Victorian structures remain to this day mostly overgrown or partially buried.
Changes are on the way once again as the new Metrolink development is about to tear its way through woodland and stride across the River Mersey close to Jackson's Boat pub. It seems that industry will only leave the Mersey Valley alone on a temporary basis. However, its is comforting to know that the sacrifice is being made in the interests of developing a competitively sustainable and modern transport system.
Today I have been carrying my camera around in a my new F-Stop camera case. It can be carried around on its own with a shoulder strap but it also slips conveniently into a small rucksack.
Sunday, March 04, 2012
Mad March trip on the Menai
Early March is throwing a variety of weather our way but blustery conditions didn't stop us from getting out for a breezy paddle. Several of us sought shelter in the Menai Straits. We headed south from Menai Bridge and began to take on the southerly breeze that stood between us and and our lunch stop at Y Felinheli.
Starting later than intended, the tide turned against us so we crept along close to the shore to keep out of the flow. Even so the wind and spray kept our forward speed down to a crawl.
Eventually we made it to Y Felinheli through a vicious squall. The best option was to dart into the nearest pub for warmth and refreshment. The folk at Y Garddfon Inn were very welcoming despite our bedraggled and wind-swept appearance. They served us with tea, hot chocolate, chips and beer.
Once we had warmed up the return journey was easy cruising with wind and tide behind us. Upon our arrival back at Menai Bridge the wind dropped and we were greeted by a hint of warm spring sunshine.
Starting later than intended, the tide turned against us so we crept along close to the shore to keep out of the flow. Even so the wind and spray kept our forward speed down to a crawl.
Eventually we made it to Y Felinheli through a vicious squall. The best option was to dart into the nearest pub for warmth and refreshment. The folk at Y Garddfon Inn were very welcoming despite our bedraggled and wind-swept appearance. They served us with tea, hot chocolate, chips and beer.
Once we had warmed up the return journey was easy cruising with wind and tide behind us. Upon our arrival back at Menai Bridge the wind dropped and we were greeted by a hint of warm spring sunshine.
Monday, February 27, 2012
Packing the Suitcase
This suitcase floats on water even when I get inside! I'm off to Greenland in July and I'm busy getting a kayak prepared to be shipped out there.
The great thing is that I can get some kit and a few goodies packed into it so I don't have to carry everything with me on the flight in July.
The great thing is that I can get some kit and a few goodies packed into it so I don't have to carry everything with me on the flight in July.
Sunday, February 26, 2012
Big Cliffs and Cafes
Sea kayaking is more regularly done in the summer months when the weather is warm and choice of sustenance includes ice cream and cold fizzy pop. Stealing a day of paddling on a brisk winter's day is really special but you have to remember to wrap up warm and bring your thermos flask.
I was joined by several good folk from North West Sea Kayakers for a breezy 20 mile paddle round the Ormes These are towering headlands of limestone on the north wales coast.
This kiosk cum promenade cafe was to become our bolt hole. I was amazed to hear people ordering ice cream. We mostly ordered something with chips and a hot drink before heading back west.
With wind against tide, the return journey became a little tougher but curious cloud formations offshore created dramatic skies making it all worthwhile.
The sky burst into a blaze of glory as we reached the final headland. A perfect end to a proper day out on the sea.
I was joined by several good folk from North West Sea Kayakers for a breezy 20 mile paddle round the Ormes These are towering headlands of limestone on the north wales coast.
This kiosk cum promenade cafe was to become our bolt hole. I was amazed to hear people ordering ice cream. We mostly ordered something with chips and a hot drink before heading back west.
With wind against tide, the return journey became a little tougher but curious cloud formations offshore created dramatic skies making it all worthwhile.
The sky burst into a blaze of glory as we reached the final headland. A perfect end to a proper day out on the sea.
Friday, February 10, 2012
It's All Downhill From Here

...and that is the whole problem! I am not a natural at downhill skiing but having had some lessons before this holiday, I felt that it would be rude not to give it a go. The thing I find really scary is when I'm overtaken by a herd of skiers doing light speed.

I have Kirstine to thank for some encouragement and moral support. Apart from practicing on the local slopes with free lifts, we managed to get to 'Signal', which is one of the higher lift stations with excellent views towards Mont Blanc. More importantly we managed to get back down again via some green and easy blue runs. Scary but fun at the same time.
Ski Nordique

Kirstine and I are on holiday in Courchevel. There is over a metre and a half of snow and the sun is shining. Over the last three days the conditions have been perfect for all kinds of skiing although with daytime temperatures rarely getting above -5 Celsius we have had to really wrap up.

We haven't seen much in the way of wildlife, I guess it's just too cold! But every morning we see small flocks of Alpine Choughs sunning themselves or huddled round warm chimneys.

Today have worked our way from Courchevel 1850 to Meribel Alitport. We then had a brief pic-nic lunch in the sunshine before heading back via a trail that took us to La Tania.

From there we took a short bus ride back to Courchevel 1650 where we are staying.
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