Lleyn Peninsula and Bardsey Island

The weekend provided ideal conditions for sea kayaking around the Lleyn Peninsula. Several of us based ourselves at the Aberafon campsite beside the pebbly beach, just to the north of Trefor. Having stopped for fish & chips on the way, we arrived just in time to raise a glass to the setting sun.

The next morning saw us heading off early to launch from Porth Oer in dazzling sunlight. The rock hopping between Porth Oer and the end of the Lleyn peninsula is excellent. There are countless gullies and teasing rock gardens ready to claim white gelcoat deposits from the boats of cocky or careless paddlers.

The crossing of Bardsey Sound is rarely 'straightforward' and this time 'slack water' evaded us in spite of careful planning. The wild west shores of Bardsey greeted us with yet more rock hopping fun amongst the kelp hollows with a few grey seals thrown in for good measure.

Soon after landing beside the slipway we set about exploring the island. The first item on the menu was the lighthouse and the southern tip that we had just passed in our kayaks. The red and white painted lighthouse along with the fog horn building look in need of a spot of paint and some other repairs.

The main course of our Bardsey adventure feast was the summit the hill that gives the island its grand facade. Mynydd Enlli towers 167 metres dominating the lower parts of the island to its west. The eastern cliffs and crags drop steeply to the turbulent waters of Bardsey Sound. Whilst adolescent choughs swoop amongst the rocky outcrops hundreds of Manx shearwater burrows remain silent by day. After dark these sea cliffs come alive with their ghostly, underground, nocturnal chuntering.

For dessert, we descended the west side of the hill via the 12th century abbey ruins and the bird observatory before launching our kayaks once more and heading back to Porth Oer in the golden, hazy afternoon sunshine.

Back at Aberafon campsite, the warm evening begged for a barbecue on the beach. Gradually tales of the day's adventures grew taller and more obscure until we were overcome by sleep.

The next morning brought a new adventure in the form of a paddle to the pub. The paddle from Trefor to Porth Dinllaen is full of all sorts of contrast. The first headland is riddled with all sorts of nooks and crannies. A luminous blue back-lit cave has an underwater passage through to a secret storm beach built steeply with fist-sized pebbles.

A series of dark craggy stacks stand guard over more rocky beaches that lie in the shadow of Yr Eifl. These 3 peaks mark the northern root of the Lleyn Peninsula. Further south is Nant Gwrtheyryn. This was once a cursed valley but is now re-born as the home of the Welsh national language and heritage centre. It is here that we stumbled upon a group of sea kayakers enjoying their morning Tai-Chi among the abandoned quarry workings above the beach.

The headland of Penrhyn Glas has tall cliffs with ledges tightly packed with kittiwakes, razorbills, guillemots and cormorants. This is a noisy, hectic and messy place where guano rains down from the shanty towns above.

From here, 6 kilometres and three sandy bays separated several thirsty paddlers from the welcoming hostelry, 'Ty Coch' at Porth Dinllaen. The pace quickened in the final kilometre. The perfect beach picnic was an assortment of sausages, cheese, grapes and freshly dispensed draught beer.

The return to Trefor was much slower that expected. In the clear glassy waters we noticed other slow things too...

The Book Has Arrived

This is the moment at which I first managed to get my mucky paws on this long awaited book. This project has been the focus of my spare time for the last four years.

Photo: Will Herman

This has meant that I have spent most weekends and holidays paddling, researching, photographing and writing about some fantastic coastal scenery. Some of the coastlines, like those of Northumberland and Yorkshire, are already well known for their classic sea kayaking scenery. However, it is hoped that this guidebook will open up some of the less well known shores like the Durham Heritage Coast, Cumbrian estuaries and the Isle of Man.

You can order the book by clicking here

There will also be a small number of launch events open to all.

Adventures on your Doorstep

I've been taking it easy this weekend staying at home and avoiding the traditional bank holiday traffic jams. I was still in need of some sort of an outdoor fix so Chris and I dusted our bikes off in the hope of finding some adventures close to home.

The Trans-Pennine Trail runs close to where we live so we started by heading west towards Carrington Moss. The area is ideally suited to cycling and walking because of the network of paths that criss-cross the varied habitats. There is woodland, heath, open grassland and marshy areas with ponds.

Close to Altrincham we found the towpath of the Bridgwater Canal, which soon led us to grand estate of Dunham Massey. The grounds cover nearly 200 acres most of which pasture-woodland with ancient oak trees and fallow deer.

After weaving our way through the exclusive suburbs of Hale and Bowdon we crossed the River Bollin, gatecrashed a mini 'Crufts' dog training event then hurried away through dense woodland near the M56 motorway.

After winding our way along Cheshire's narrow country lanes we arrived at the sleepy village of Rostherene. The churchyard that overlooks Rostherne Mere made for a perfect place to catch our breath and take in the view across the lake. All of the excitement had developed quite a thirst so we then headed for Tatton Park for a welcome coffee stop.

All too soon we were seeing the last of the rolling Cheshire countryside as we trundled over Bucklow Hill and made good our escape back to our urban comfort-zone that is south Manchester.

Keswick Mountain Festival - A blustery affair

Last year's event was held in glorious sunshine but this time the Cumbrian weather had something different to say. On Thursday and Friday tents, marquees and other temporary structures were being assembled in readiness for a weekend of sporting activities, side shows and the pedaling of associated clobber.

Saturday went smoothly enough and the crowds braved the strengthening breeze as as a few blustery showers paved the way for more persistent rain that continued late into the night.

By Sunday morning the main festival site was a scene of devastation. At first, the main marquee was a little ragged but looked  as if it might survive.

By 10am it had come crashing down and was being hurriedly cleared away. Let's hope for better weather for the event next year.

Stormy Rhoscolyn

It seems that last month's weather was more typical of June and now that we are in the merry month of may, April has jumped in with wellies on. Sunshine and blustery showers dominated the weekend as Dave and I spent a weekend on Anglesey at the pretty village of Rhoscolyn.

On the way to north Wales we visited our friend Ray who has recently retired. He has been making good use of his spare time setting up a workshop and making 'Greenland style' paddles. Ray is an excellent craftsman and his paddles are of unquestionable quality.

We arrived at the campsite just in time to get the tents up before the next squally shower came in.

The strong northwesterly winds left us few options for paddling, so we launched at Four Mile Bridge soon after high tide and followed the ebbing waters towards Rhosneigr.

We then followed the beautiful craggy shores, rock-hopping all the way back to Rhoscolyn.

Finally, on Sunday we found that the persistent winds had brought surf to Sandy Beach.

Anglesey 'Symposium'

The word 'symposium' strikes fear and loathing into the hearts of many sea kayakers. However, I don't really mind it all that much. This is because the word has its origins in the times when Greek scholars would get together under the guise of exchanging wisdom, whilst actually just having a right old knees up!

The relentless easterly breeze tried its best to spoil things and some plans had to be altered but blue seas and brilliant sunshine won through.

Photo: Olly Sanders

I spent plenty of time rock-hopping and exploring caves whilst trying out the new Aries from P&H Custom Kayaks.

Off the water, the symposium base at the Anglesey Outdoor Centre was a hive of activity with retailers and manufacturers peddling their wares. Evening talks and slide shows, and the newly refurbished Paddlers Return Bar completed the festival atmosphere as beer-fueled tall tales ran late into the night.

Knoydart Revisited

Back in 2004 Kirstine and I visited the remote Knoydart peninsula for the first time. Like last time we drove to the Silversands campsite just north of Arisaig. After relaxing for a couple of nights we paddled along the white sandy beaches and rocky shores to Mallaig and into the depths of Loch Nevis.

Loch Nevis is hemmed in by mountains, moorland and steep wooded shores. There are no roads to Knoydart and its village of Inverie so the only way to get there is by sea, or on foot from Loch Arkaig 20 miles away.

Hill walking is very popular here. There are several 'Monroes' and a handful or 'Corbetts'.  Ladhar Bheinn is the highest peak at 1010m. Last time we climbed Meall Buidhe (942m) and this time we climed a couple of lower peaks that overlook Inverie Bay and the Long Beach campsite. We set off walking along the Inverie River to Loch an Dubh-Lochan. From there we walked steeply amongst the crags to the summit of Stob an Uillt-fhearthna (661m).

The lower south-facing slopes are littered with primroses. Once on the summit we were surrounded by handsome peaks strung together by bold, craggy ridges. From there we went south-west along the ridge to Sgurr Coire Choinnichean (796m). The mountains and ridges were all behind us with Inverie Bay below and views in font of us across the sea to the islands of Skye, Eigg and Rum.

Aching from the walking, we opted for a gentle paddle up Loch Nevis the next day. We made for the narrows at Kylesknoydart looking for seals. It seemed strange to see them so far away from the open ocean. We left them to their fishing and made for the shelter of Tarbet Bay for lunch in the sun. We were greeted by Frank who lives in the old church there and runs it as a bothy. He invited us in for tea and jokes! His invitation was impossible to resist and it was even harder to leave. We must return another time and spend the night.

It was difficult to find motivation to pack up the next day and leave. Since our first visit only a few things have changed but Knoydart and Inverie have retained their remote charm and warm welcome. We said a final farewell to Inverie by visiting the cafe for pop and ice creams in the midday sun before setting off along the northern shores of Loch Nevis.

The waters here are so deep and blue with spreading forests of seaweed.

The 'Madonna' blesses the waters of Loch Nevis and all those who enter and leave this way.

Puffin Island & the Menai Strait

I recently visited the sunny and sheltered shores of eastern Anglesey. Its good to know that some things don't change much.

Puffin Island was buzzing with thousands of cliff nesting sea birds and its waters surrounded by inquisitive seals. The Arctic and sandwich Terns have arrived and their hovering and plunge diving for fish is as entertaining as ever.

Heading southwest down the Menai Strait we passed Beaumaris before the tidal stream picked up and carried us swiftly towards Menai Bridge and the Swellies.

The currents in the Swellies have a fearsome reputation amongst mariners but with the right skills and knowledge the waves and eddies can be great fun in canoes and Kayaks.

The music on the video is from the album 'Aurora' by Michael McGoldrick. The photos are by Kev Robinson.

Gwydyr Forest

On a soggy weekend a couple of weeks ago Chris and I headed off in search of some hill walking in the Snowdonia National Park. There was a thick blanket of drizzly grey cloud hiding the peaks and ridges that we love, so we thought we would try something a little different.

The waters of Llyn Geirionedd and Llyn Crafnant are separated by the thickly wooded slopes of Mynydd Deulyn in the Gwydyr Forest. Neither of us fancied a route march on exposed windy slopes in poor visibility, so a walk along the lake shores and through the woods made a pleasant change.

The views along the shores were far better than from the higher peaks. The waters of Llyn Geirionedd are strangely clear but this lake has been polluted by water leaking from nearby disused lead mines. In contrast, Llyn Crafnant is a popular fishing spot and there is a cafe that overlooks the lake.

The slopes of Mynydd Deulyn have a variety of woodland. Areas of densely planted spruce make for a spooky scene reminiscent of walking through caves or vaulted cellars.

In the occasional clearing there were small twisted oak trees sprouting with ferns and thickly draped in mosses. We hurried on quickly back to where we had left the car in case of ghosts, witches or other such wild beings.

The Cumberland Ring

This weekend, Kate, Sean and I will start a challenging kayaking trip. The Cumberland Ring is so called because is circumnavigates The English Lake District; the land of the Cumberland Ring sausage.

The route takes in the rivers Lune,  Eden and miles of Cumbrian coast. We have been supplied with some excellent kit. We will be using Pyranha Fusion kayaks for the rivers, P&H Cetus for the sea, clothing from Peak UK and we will have Mitchell Blades for propulsion. With regard to fuel, we will be fortified by award winning Cumberland Ring sausages from Cranston's of Penrith and Sticky Toffee Pudding from the Cartmel Village shop.

We will be updating a dedicated blog at the end of each day.

Book Ahoy!

Over the last 3 years I have been busy researching, photographing and writing about the shores of northern England and the Isle of Man. I have worn out at least one kayak, strained several friendships, overwhelmed two computers and drowned a couple of cameras. As for pubs, cafes and chip shops... let's not go there!

At last the end seems in sight. The new guidebook is called Northern England and Isle of Man and describes '50 great Sea Kayak Voyages'. Pesda Press have announced the publication date as 2nd of May. There is more information about the book here.

Robbie Burns and the Welsh dragon

Always keen on finding excuses for a celebration, Kev and Gill from NWSK laid on a weekend in Wales to include a Burns Night Supper. We rented a grand house in Harlech ideally situated between the mountains and the sea.

Some went for and early morning paddle on the Mawddach Estuary, whilst Kirstine me and several others opted for lofty heights of Cnicht. This mountain gives is a little off the beaten track but offers excellent views over the Moelwyns, Dwyryd Estuary and the Snowdon Massif.

Despite there being few scots among our number, we managed to embrace the concept of following a brisk day in the outdoors with a hearty plateful of haggis, neaps and tatties. Pudding was homemade ice cream made with a good quality 16 year old malt whisky. Finally, a wee dram of yet another fine malt made for the perfect nightcap!

   

Festive Fun

The wintry freeze didn't show any sign of loosening its grip during the Christmas period. With the Mersey Valley looking like a winter wonderland, we made our traditional pilgrimage to the pub on our cross-country skis.

On Boxing Day I met up with other members of Manchester Canoe Club for the traditional festive ice breaker. The fun started with a spot of canoe sledging...

Following a series of overnight temperatures of around -10 celcius, the River Goyt was partially frozen over. However, that was not enough to put off over 30 paddlers from making the tour from Brabyn's Park to the club site.

In the bleak midwinter

Winter arrived early. Its hard to imagine that we have been in the grips of this cold snap for 3 weeks now.

Back in November it became unseasonably cold but the ducks could swim freely and all seemed well.

Then the snow came. Actually not all that much here in Manchester but not very far away in most directions there have been record snowfalls. Still there is enough to have a few short local outings on my cross country skis.

Finally, me and a few neighbours have been chipping away at the slippery ice that has accumulated on the sloping driveway to our flats. All the hard work was done by 4 o'clock which meant it was time for tea and a jolly good natter.