Monday, September 15, 2014

Waterfall Valley & Glacier de France

The combination of sheltered waters and sunny weather made for almost Mediterranean conditions in Kangertittivatsiaq Fjord. It it baffling to feel too hot whilst paddling amongst ice. 

We finished the day two thirds of the way up the fjord on a beach with flat rocks that were warm from the day's sunshine. Between preparing food and pitching our tents we spent an hour or so sunbathing. 

To add to the paradise feel of our camp there was a raging river cascading over ledges and sliding over smooth slabs. As paddlers, we spent a while discussing the best white water lines down there impossible rapids and drops.

Before the sun went down behind the northern end of the fjord we followed the river further up the valley and wondered when people were last here.

When morning came we paddled for almost three hours towards the calving face of Glacier de France. The scale of this landscape was difficult to comprehend. I gazed beyond the fragile ice cliff and across the surface of the glacier stretching, twisting and curving for mile upon mile towards the mountains in the hazy distance. The most distant mountains were well off our map and north of the Artcic Circle.

This place was peaceful and quiet apart from the 'snap crackle and pop' from the brash. As the strong morning sun warms up small pieces of ice, tiny pressurised air bubbles burst as the surfaces melt. The fizzing and popping sound is amazing. Like paddling through a giant bowl of ‘Rice Crispies’. The ice kept us buzy as we turned to paddle south and continue our journey. From now onwards we would be working our way back towards Sermiligaaq and eventually Tasiilaq.

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