To Knoydart for Easter

In an effort to make the best of a for day weekend we began our mad dash for the Scottish Highlands straight after work on Thursday night. The van, crammed with gear and with 4 kayaks on the roof was taking the strain well. We celebrated crossing the border by scoffing down a late supper of haggis and chips. Eventually we arrived at Arisaig after 2am on Good Friday morning. We wearily pitched our tents in the dark and promptly fell asleep to the peaceful sounds of the Scottish sea.

The view in the morning was breathtaking. What a sight to wake up to. Crystal blue skies, warm sunshine and a gentle breeze set the scene for breakfast time. However, the forecast was for strengthening winds from the south. Our plan was to make it into the sheltered waters of Loch Nevis as quickly as possible.

By late morning the skies had darkened and the wind had arrived. Before long it was cold and rainy and we were glad of our booking at the Knoydart Foundation Bunkhouse. It was the perfect place to settle down on an increasingly stormy afternoon. As we ventured along the track to the Old Forge Pub we gazed at the whirling columns of sea spray whipped up by the gale force gusts. We were glad to have landed as early as we had.

We spent Saturday exploring the shores of Loch Nevis and visited Tarbert where there is a portage track into neighboring Loch Morar. The bunkhouse run by the late legendary 'Frank', is closed for now but I was assured that there are plans to re-open it next year.

On the way back to Inverie we passed Tom McLean's Highland Outdoor Centre and his bizarre 'whale ship', collected mussels and paid a visit to the holy statue that overlooks the entrance to the Loch.

It rained all day.

Improving weather on Easter Sunday prompted us to head out of the loch and look for somewhere to camp for the final nigh of our trip. It was so pleasing to finally see blue skies and paddle in the sunshine again. However, it wasn't long before we were pelted with hail and blasted with squally gusts.

We were left with only a short paddle on the bank holiday. The overnight weather had left the air cold, crisp and clear. Blue skies had returned and the island of Rum had a shiny new white coat. Among the rocks and skerries we spotted an otter chewing a stump of kelp. This is the special scenery that we had come for.

Thanks to Andy, Andy, Andy and Ian from Manchester Canoe Club for their company. The fish and chips at Mallaig was the perfect way to end the trip.

Manchester Canoe Club Spring Sea Kayak Meet

The Anglesey Outdoors Centre provides a great base for sea kayaking activities. There is a variety of budget priced good quality self-catering accommodation, close proximity to a terrific coastline and The Paddlers Return Bar. We began to arrive in the bar in dribs and drabs and by 10pm on Friday evening we were beginning to formulate a plan for the following day trip.
 

After breakfast on Saturday the first challenge was for everyone to meet at ‘Summit to Sea’, which is the local kayak store. Sea kayaks can be rented here from £20 per day. As soon as we were all kitted up we headed off along the North coast of Anglesey to start our day trip at Bull Bay. 

The plan was to keep out of the strong southerly wing by paddling among the rocks beneath the cliffs. Many of the group had never paddled sea kayaks before so before heading out of the bay we spent half an hour brushing up on some basic skills to get acquainted with these unfamiliar and unwieldy craft. Three of the group are working towards the 4* Sea Leader Award so they each took responsibility of leading sections of the trip during each day.

It wasn’t long before we were treated to the sighting of a porpoise. The group stopped and gazed across the waves for the occasional glimpse of the fin arcing over the water. The rockhopping along this coast is excellent. Arches, caves, and narrow rocky channels kept us entertained as we weaved our way towards Porth Wen. 

Photo: Andy Hamilton

Once we arrived at Porth Wen it was time for lunch and a little exploring. The ruins of the abandoned brick works are intriguing. Production of ‘firebricks’ began here around 1850 but ceased in the early 1900s. After lunch we paddled back to Bull Bay before heading back to the Anglesey Outdoors Centre. 

Entertainment on Saturday evening took the shape of a pub quiz in The Paddlers Return Bar based on general sea kayaking knowledge as well as some of the features of the day trip. Plenty of fun was had and mickey taking was dispensed washed down with a generous helping of booze!
 

Sunday’s trip was at the rockhopping centre of the world known as Rhoscolyn. The coastline is strewn with reefs and rock gardens. In some places, timing was key because there were sets of powerful waves coming in filling the rock gardens with tricky white water. 

After Lunch in the sunshine we paddled out offshore for a brief tour of Rhoscolyn Beacon. The swell made it difficult to venture close to the rocks but it was fun to feel the swell off the outermost reefs. Finally, it was time to finishing off with some more rescue skills and towing practice before packing up and heading home to Manchester.

The 8th UK Storm Gathering

The 8th UK Storm Gathering was held at the Anglesey Outdoors Centre. Normally when we have a 'Storm Gathering' mother nature provides us with some suitable weather. This was to be a normal Storm Gathering!

I paddled with groups on rockhopping journeys looking for a reasonable degree of shelter. Even so, the north coast had enough boisterous energy to keep us all entertained, on our toes and on one occasion, into the water amongst undercut rocks infested with barnacles who had recently sharpened their pointed crowns.

Steve Whetman and I delivered the evening entertainment on Saturday. We were asked to do something amusing based on the weather. There was only a limited time that we could draw out jokes about wind and wetness so we showed some silly videos and moved on the The Paddlers Return Bar for further nourishment.

Photo: Steve Godfrey

The event finished on Monday with some great rockhopping at Rhoscolyn. The sun was out, the winds were light but there was plenty of swell crashing into the rock gardens. 

In the following days there was an incident management course laid on by the International Sea Kayak Guides Association. I managed to keep myself amused with walks along the coast in the sunny weather that followed the storm...

...but also went paddling along the southern shores of Anglesey. Sometimes its important to keep a little corner of your favourite sport for yourself.

The Snowy Moorlands of Staffordshire

The Brothers theme continues with me and Chris driving to Staffordshire to visit our brother Andrew. The forecasts had indicated that we we might not make it as some of the higher villages were cut off by the overnight snowfall.

It was a relief to find that the steep, narrow, twisty lanes had not only been cleared of snow but were busy with Saturday morning traffic.

Its was a pleasure to the slower pace of village life and stroll down the lanes through wintry picture box scenes.

Festive Fun on Anglesey

The whole idea of spending a few days on Anglesey after the Christmas fuss had died down was perfect but mother nature had different ideas. The unprecendented flooding in North Wales had closed all the routes along the coast and through Snowdonia.

Me and Kate had intended to arrive on Boxing Day but instead got there a day later than planned. Eventually we were met by Norbert and Andy. In an effort to beat the Christmas bulge we got up and went to a gentle jog to Porth Dafarch each morning to fill our lungs with fresh sea air and work up an appetite for breakfast.

On the first day we managed to get on the water at Rhoscolyn. We started off by gingerly testing the blustery surf in the middle of the bay. Eventually we found our nerve and ventured out a little further until a combination of common sense blended with pure terror lead us neatly off the water and into the White Eagle pub for a nerve settling beer.

Overnight the winds increased and by morning we didn't dare take our kayaks off the roofracks. Instead we decided to go for a walk to South Stack to embrace the elements. The final part of the road to the lighthouse was flooded and the wind was too strong to stand up in. It was invigorating!

The evenings were long and fueled with an assortment alcoholic drinks and silly games like 'Dress up the buoy'.

Even though we were living on basic foods, we tried to keep ourselves entertained serving it up in imaginative ways.

Finally we got some clear blue skies. The winds were still very strong so we headed for the Menai Strait before heading home and back to reality.

Gurglings from the Goyt

The River Goyt runs from the Errwood and Fernilee reservoirs, north of Buxton, to Stockport where it joins the Tame to form the Mersey. Manchester Canoe Club has an excellent facility on the banks of the Goyt just down stream of Marple, which includes a floodlit slalom course.

Photo: Kate Duffus

Having spent some time learning how to paddle a canoe recently, it was time to get out onto one of the rivers near to where I live and the Goyt proved to be a good choice. I was joined by my good friend Kate Duffus and between us we braved the mud and drizzle of Brabyn's Park. After a short warm up, we set about tackling two weirs in the park before having fun on some easy grade 2 rapids among pleasant rural scenery.

The last two rapids that lead down to the Manchester Canoe Club site provided particularly good entertainment. We managed to ship quite a bit of water which meant that the bailer came in quite handy. After lunch, it was much too early to head back home so we 'tracked' back part way up the river just so we could have another go at those last two rapids.

Brothers in Wales

With a wild and windy weekend in the offing me and my brother Chris drove to Cardiff to visit our Brother Mark. This was to be our pre-Christmas get together and chance to get out for a bright and Breezy walk along the South Wales Coast.

The cliffs and wave-cut platforms at Dunraven are spectacular at anytime but the stormy weather brings this place to life. The sound of the waves bashing at the base of the cliffs is breathtaking.

Impressed with the sea state, we moved on to have a look at the waves crashing on the breakwater at Porthcawl. This is the place where many classic 'stormy sea' photos are taken because of the gymnastic displays given as the incoming waves clash with the backwash, or reflected waves.

Anglesey Friends from Opposing Ends

The Welsh name for Puffin Island is 'Ynys Seiriol' and refers to St Seiriol who established a monastery at the nearby headland at Penmon during the 6th Century. There are many stories about Seiriol walking to meet his good friend St Gybi who lived at Caergybi / Holyhead. The two friends often used to meet in the middle of Anglesey.

Seiriol would walk west in the morning, and then would return home walking East in the afternoon. With the sun on his back for most of his travels, his face would rarely catch the sun and he became known as the pale or white saint.

St Gybi walked east in the mornings and west in the afternoons and always had the sun on his face. St Gybi became known as the tanned or tawny saint.

Club Scene

Manchester Canoe Club is the nearest canoe club to where I live. It is primarily a river based club with great premises set beside the river Goyt near Marple.

More recently, interest in sea kayaking in has been building up nicely over the last couple of years. We have had a few meets on Anglesey with white water paddlers renting kayaks from Summit to Sea. A handful of members now have their own sea kayaks and are rapidly gaining experience.

A couple of weeks ago we met at the Anglesey Outdoors Centre for a packed weekend of activity. We met at the Paddlers Return Bar on the Friday evening and made plans for the next day. The weather forecast was very light winds and almost no swell.

Photo: Andy Sloan

On Saturday morning those of us who needed to collect kayaks from Summit to Sea did so. We then headed to Porth Dafarch to embark upon a trip around South Stack and into Gogarth Bay. We reached Parliament House Cave in time for lunch. Unfortunately, there was a dead seal stinking the place out so appetites were not great. We soon got back onto the water and followed the early ebb stream back to Penrhyn Mawr and Porth Dafarch.

Photo: Andy Hamilton

To keep things busy and informative we booked a visit to Holyhead Coastguard. We were shown around the operations room and their latest equipment and software for coordinating search and rescue operations.

Photo: Ann Crook

Within an hour of saying 'thanks and goodbye' to the Coastguards, we we preparing for a short night paddle. We split into two separate groups and paddled about a couple of kilometres but it was enough to see the bioluminescence sparkling in the pitch black waters.

After such a busy Saturday, we spent Sunday rockhopping along the mild west coast of Anglesey between Sandy Beach and Church Bay.

West Wales Sea Kayak Meet

Its a long old haul from Manchester to Pembrokeshire and all the more difficult through the Friday night rush. Upon arrival at the Glendower pub in Goodwick, the road miles were quickly forgotten. I had arrived at the West Wales Sea Kayak Meet.

The event is hosted by local sea kayak guide Mike Mayberry of Mayberry Kayaking and based at the Phoenix Centre. We started each morning with a powerful cooked breakfast at the nearby Beaches Diner before organising a variety of day trips around the local Coastline.

On the Saturday I paddled with a small group to explore some offshore rocky islets that lie amongst the strong tidal streams of West Wales. The Bishops, Clerks and Bitches sounds more like a variation on a vicar's and tart's party!

Having Launched from Whitesands Bay, we began the ferry glide out to North Bishop. This proved to be more straightforward than we expected. However, we encountered more challenging waters at we passed Carreg Rhosson (The Clerks) en route to the rugged west shores of Ramsey Island.

The south end of Ramsey gave us some challenging flows to fight in Midland Gap but we were soon on our way round to 'The Bitches' and the challenging tidal rapids of Ramsey Sound.

After we had our dose of adrenalin we drifted back to Whitesands Bay to fininsh in warm golden afternoon sunshine. Later on, back at the centre the was fun round the barbecue and up in the bar where Wales beat England at Rugger! I have poor memories of the evening having been rendered speechless by Mr Browns high octane home brew.

Needless to say, I chose a more sedate paddling venue for Sunday Morning. The waters Dinas Head would be well sheltered and the rocky coastline would provide just the right dose of soothing entertainment.

The caves, gullies and sea creatures were perfect. We set off from Cwm yr Eglwys, weaved our way around to Pwllgwaelod and ate cake in the sunshine.

Many Thanks to Mike Mayberry for organising the event. I hope there will be another one soon... 

Greenland 2015 - Johan Petersen Fjord

In Early July the sea ice off the East Greenland coast had failed to clear as it would normally during early summer. This meant that there would be no boats running from Kulusuk to take us to the Sea Kayak Expedition base at Tasiilaq. We took the unusual step of making this journey by Helicopter.

The 10 minute ride was spectacular. We flew close to a couple of places that we had camped during past trips before crossing Kong Oscar Havn and landing at Tasiilaq. The weather was gloomy and cold (2-4 Celsius) but there was plenty of excitement in town for the evenings football match.

Over the next few days, we made our way through densely packed ice-laden waters and headed around to the north side of Angmagssalik Island. This involves paddling the length of a 20 mile long channel called Ikasagtivaq. It is bound on each side by spectacular snow capped peaks and is a major highway for local hunters. Danish ex-pats refer to is as the E45 after the biggest motorway in Denmark.

We visited the settlement at Tiniteqilaq before entering Sermilik Fjord and its roving collection of ice bergs. The highlight of the trip was reaching the depths of Johann Petersen Fjord. In Previous years it had been clogged with huge ice bergs but this time it was surprisingly clear.

The back of the fjord is a frozen amphitheatre on a grand scale. Steep rock walls and ice-falls stretch skywards from the sea. Beyond lies the timeless expanse of the Greenland ice-cap. This place is an other-worldly experience where sometimes the loudest sound is of silence.

Many thanks to Martin Rickard of Sea Kayak Adventures for another wonderful adventure, and to  P&H Custom Sea Kayaks, Mitchell Blades, Clif Bar UK and Peak UK for their continued support.

Off to the races

Over the last three weekends I have been off to the races! The first was to tried and tested Conwy Ascent Race. This wonderful event has been hosted by Dyfryn Conwy Paddlers for many years and is always well-attended.

The Le Mans style start makes this event a real favourite for me. Tripping, stumbling and splashing your way into a 15km race usually results in a bit of chaos and entertainment. All good fun! The race ends at Dolgarrog in a civilised manner with endless cups of tea and giant sandwiches.

The bird life on the Farne Islands is amazing this time of year but the annual Midsummer pilgrimage to Northumberland just wouldn't be complete without the Coquet Island Race! The Coquet Canoe Club were proudly showing off their new facility on The Braid at Amble. Its always great to meet up with my northern friends and have beers in the lovely pubs in Beadnell.

Finally, I took part in the Hilbre Island Race for the first time. This event is hosted by Liverpool Canoe Club at the Dee Sailing Club. As we glanced across the Dee Estuary before the start, Wales disappeared in a monstrous rainstorm. On this occasion, it seemed to be more a storm endurance test than a race. Highly enjoyable! The sun even came out to dry the bedraggled paddlers and organisers.